December 13, 2004
Dulles Is a 'Hell Hole'
The Financial Times' Jurek Martin is peeved. He hates Dulles Airport, the large international gateway way out in the Virginia suburbs so much so he calls it a "hell hole" and has even called the Post to press them to investigate Dulles and break the "silence in the American media" about its horrid service, particularly its far-from-tolerable waits to clear security in the Eero Saarinen-designed terminal.
From Martin's "Letter to America" in this weekend's FT:
Two recent personal trips, and anecdotal evidence beyond number, show an airport in chaos -- think Calcutta, Nairobi or any other erstwhile Third World hell hole, where to get on or off a flight was often an achievement in itself, and you have Dulles. This is not exactly appropriate for the world's only superpower.
Then Martin did something odd. "I used my time in line to call The Washington Post to say I thought there was a story here that a reporter might investigate, but I don't think one ever appeared." DCist thinks the Post probably knows about the security woes at Dulles, but we're sure the newsroom appreciated the tip.
Here are Martin's main beefs with Dulles, which are on point if you'd ask any reasonable passenger using the airport:
- The long security process is mismanaged and at times non-sensical. He cites an instance where he saw a security agent "order a mother to pass a three-month-old separately through screening (by rolling te child through, perhaps)."
- Dulles is far out, 25 miles from the center of the city, without train access, but there is the "under-advertised" bus service which runs to the West Falls Church metrorail station. (Don't forget about the express 5A metrobus to Rosslyn and L'Enfant Plaza.) Also the "ubiquitous blue van facility" which can take its time "depositing you at your destination." (DCSOB noted that these blue van services may have been involved in the Hunters Brooke subdivision arson ...)
- Cabs to/from Dulles are expensive
While all of this isn't really mind-blowing news to locals, we're sure it's enlightening travel information for the FT's international readership who may find themselves coming to D.C. via Dulles. But Martin seems to forget one major thing: the mobile lounges.
For those who have never been through Dulles, to get from the main terminal to the concourses, one must use the mobile lounges, or as DCist likes to call them, moon rovers. These elevated vehicles on large tires mix with tarmac traffic to bring passengers to and from the gates. We're sure they were cool back in the 1960s, but they're a little past their prime.
But as part of Dulles' capital improvement plan, the moon rovers are being done away with. An newly opened underground walkway now connects the main terminal to the Concourse B. Eventually a train system will link the terminal and concourses.
So which airport is your preferred gateway in and out of D.C.?

I try to use the wormhole on Reno Rd. when possible.
Southwest from BWI is the only way to travel...
Dulles offers BWI convenience at National prices.
Remember when Dulles was the cheap, easy, but out of the way alternative to National? (I'm talking 1980's here...)
I try to use Richmond when I can get a competitive rate. It's much more convenient for those of us in the southern 'burbs.
I once got on a plane at Dulles without producing any ID. To be sure, this was in the pre-9/11 era, but I don't think that was approved-of back then, either.
National is the only option. Unless they get good public transit to Dulles (bus is so bad, it shouldn't even be considered), and good late-night transit into BWI, I will contiue to love National.
Have you scoped out the new parking garage at BWI? It's a thing of wonder. Yes, really, I'm raving about a parking garage. Pulling up to the garage a screen reports how many free spots are at each level, and then when you're on any said level there are indicator to show which rows have free spots and then green light peek out above every available space.
No depserate hunting for spots, and no navigating amongst others swerving around to locate spaces. It's a good thing, although I'm surprised no one from CATO is around ranting about "see, see what perfect market information can accomplish."
The new parking garage at BWI (well relatively new at least) is a pretty cool use of a bit of technology to make an often frustrating experience almost pleasant. The first time I drove onto a crowded level of the parking deck there, it was great to be able to drive directly to an open spot without having to hunt around. Like John, I felt a little weird expounding the virtues of a parking garage to friends afterwards, but it was pretty cool.
Not to burst the Dulles-bashing bubble, but my first trip to Dulles (on Thanksgiving day) was remarkably catastrophe-free. The time it took to get to my gate (from the moment I stepped off the parking shuttle) was a mere half-hour. While I bow to the superiority of BWI, I can't help but be thankful for whoever was orchestrating the Dulles holiday traffic. (Of course this was all in vain, as Independence Air's delays caused me to miss Thanksgiving dinner. May they die a fiery bankrupt death!)
My favorite gateway to Washington? Leesburg, by way a Piper Turbo Arrow.
Even though it flies at 1/4 the speed of the big guys, the security delays are bad enough that I can match any sub-1000 mile flight in door-to-door times.
That's a sad commentary on our nation's transportation system.