April 13, 2005
Eating In: Huachinango a la Veracruzana
Perhaps we should just come out and admit that we have a bit of a crush on Mr. Jose Andres. Jaleo, Zaytinya, Café Atlantico, and the new Oyamel have consistently delivered excellent tapas style dining at a modest expense with a great atmosphere. In his most recent offerings at Oyamel, Andres marches the tapas revolution south to Mexico. Fish tacos, molés, enchiladas and other traditional Mexican mainstays share the stage with sautéed fishes and roasted meats that exude Mexican style. Oyamel rounds out a family of restaurants that have always yielded a great experience, drawing us back repeatedly.
Huachinango a la Veracruzana pairs a pan seared red snapper filet with sautéed tomatoes, onions, olives, and capers. It seemed a perfect remedy to the boring pan-seared and sauce free fish filets that we have been making at home this winter.

Shopping list
2 red snapper filets with skin on
1 can red whole tomatoes
1 medium onion
Anchovies
Garlic
Cayenne
Lemon
Cilantro
Capers
Large Green Olives
Notes: Any mild fish will work fine in this dish. Tilapia is a great substitution. The skin is optional as well but properly seared will add a texture and flavor to this dish that should not be missed. Also, quality fresh tomatoes are getting closer to ready... but not quite. High quality canned organic tomatos like Muir Glen are as close to summer tomatoes as you can get.
Start by placing a large shallow pan for the sauce over medium heat and adding 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When the oil starts to shimmer add the yellow onion, thickly sliced. Sautee the onions until translucent, but don’t let them caramelize. They should maintain a clear color and not brown. Next, add 1 minced garlic clove, 1/2 of a minced anchovy and a dash of cayenne pepper. Stir the ingredients to combine and add the canned tomatoes. Use the back of a spoon to break up the tomatoes and give one last stir. Salt and pepper to taste before reducing heat to a low simmer. This sauce will cook for 20-30 minutes to soften the tomatoes and onions but not let them cook down. If the sauce gets to dry add water sparingly.
While the sauce is cooking, lightly season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper before pre-heating a heavy non-stick skillet over medium high heat. While the pan heats for 4-5 minutes, the salt will draw moisture out of the fish to the surface, which will help flour to adhere. When the pan is hot add two tablespoons of olive oil. Dredge the fish lightly in all-purpose flour on both sides before placing in the pan skin side down. Now slowly back away from the pan. Resist all urges to touch, play, or fiddle with the filets until an opaque ring forms around the sides indicating the skin side is adequately browned.
While waiting for the fish to finish on the first side add the zest of half a lemon to the tomato and onion mixture and stir to combine. Use the remaining time to pit 5 or 6 large olives, and set them aside.
Carefully turn the filet to reveal what should be golden brown and slightly crisped skin. You now have about 2 minutes to finish the sauce before the fish finishes. Stir in the olives, and a tablespoon of the capers. Stir over heat for one minute before plating two generous portions of the resulting mixture. If you were quick your filets should now be perfectly cooked. Remove them from the skillet and place on top of the tomatoes and onions before generously sprinkling with chopped cilantro. We think Mr. Andres would be pleased indeed.

Here's a Hint: Jaleo and Oyamel both blow. Horrible service, terrible tasting tapas, and completely overpriced. I guess that's all we've got in DC, but they are SO weak.
This dish here, though, looks really good; so do I risk the fish spoiling while I wait in line at Whole Foods, or do I risk accidentally gentrifying the local fish market by getting some there?