Part one of two.

When Melih and Omer Buyukbayrak's Tabaq Bistro opened on U Street this past August, a dress code controversy overshadowed just about everything else about the place -- including their food and stellar rooftop view. Don mere flip-flops and a sweatshirt and it was "No view for you!" But just inside, hipster guys clad in jeans and T-shirts were ponying up to the bar for fancy cocktails. As noted elsewhere, policies applied inconsistently breed contempt.

Since Tabaq's opening, the brothers have informally clarified their expectations for attire. These days, graffiti tags take precedence over UVA logos for the guys, and lithe ladies wearing low-slung jeans feature prominently on an average night. But the bottom line is that the Buyukbayrak Boys want you to look cool. And that means no shorts, no flip-flops, no sweatshirts and, please, no hats.

The subsiding controversy has finally allowed customers and critics alike to turn their attention to Tabaq's stellar view -- and to the cuisine that warrants it. As you trek up Tabaq's four flights of stairs, keep telling the friend who lobbied for Dino or the beau who preferred a beer at Stetson’s that dinner or drinks on Tabaq's rooftop on a clear night is great. DCist recently went on a quiet Tuesday and marveled at how lovely D.C. looks from on high and under a full moon. Since Tabaq has opened, we’ve visited with the roof and doors opened and closed, rain and shine. We can't wait to check it out when it snows.

If you're just stopping by for drinks, a larger-than-legal-sized wine list focuses predominantly on good-value Greek and Italian wines by the glass. For cocktails, we especially liked the "Nectar" -- a Champagne, Cointreau and lime cocktail. The pomegranate martini puts Rosa Mexicano's pomegranate margarita to shame.

If you're staying longer, you must try the tapas. We liked the Mediterranean cheese and fig plate more than the hummus and lamb sausage. The kofte -- a pan sauteed mini-lamburger over tzatziki -- is not much to look at but so delicious we ordered for seconds.

You vegetarians will not go unloved at Tabaq. You might try the Su Borek -- a pastry layered with feta, roasted pepper and dill. Another tasty option is the vegetable tart, a puff pastry layered with onion, tomato and zucchini, served with a basil emulsion.

Tabaq also serves main courses, which include a braised lamb shank served with an eggplant-and-cheese puree, and a beef and lamb Adana kabob served with lemon rice and yogurt sauce.

We've been so entranced by Tabaq's rooftop experience that we admit we haven't felt the the need to explore the other floors quite yet. Perhaps we will this New Year's Eve. Tabaq has made elaborate plans for every level and will offer a prix fixe dinner. If you see Melih at Tabaq, ask him about it; he'd love to tell you all about it. In the meantime, you'll likely see us there enjoying a cocktail and a room with a view on the next eve of a full moon.

Tabaq Bistro
1336 U St. NW
202-265-0965
Metro: Green Line - U Street/African-American Civil War Memorial/Cardozo