By DCist contributor Amanda Kazdoy

Bistro Europa, a German and Italian restaurant smack dab in the heart of Old Town, suffers from an unfortunate situation. It occupies prime real estate (on King Street between Columbus and Washington streets), but never seems to have the full house that its more pedestrian neighbors, Bertucci’s and Austin Grill, enjoy every night.

Perhaps it’s the absence of Zagat clippings in the window or the loud bar upstairs (which the restaurant owns and operates), but something isn’t quite right. And that’s too bad because, frankly, the maultaschen alone are worth hopping on the George Washington Parkway to try. Maultaschen ($7) are Swabian-style dumplings (Swabian is pronounced “SHWAY-bee-un” and refers to a German dialect or someone or something from the southwestern region of Germany known as Swabia) that are thin, delicate and filled with a delicious mixture of bratwurst and spinach. But what takes these handmade Swabian delights from merely delicious to sublime is how they are served. They are presented in a soup format, swimming in a bowl of broth and breadcrumbs mixed with a tangle of caramelized onions. As the crumbs soak up the broth, a Cream of Wheat-type mixture emerges, adding a savory textural counterpoint to the tender dumplings.

The entrees, though, can be hit or miss. The classic wiener schnitzel -- a thin breaded and fried veal round -- is terrific and comes with buttery spaetzle and appropriately vinegary red cabbage, both prepared to perfection. But going out on a limb with unfamiliar entrees could result in Swabian discomfort. The schweinshaxe ($17.75), described as a roasted pork shank with Bavarian cabbage and potato dumpling, was underwhelming at best. The shank was prodigious and ample, but the dry and chewy meat was plastered to the bone, requiring the use of a steak knife and a free hand to pry only a tiny piece of meat loose -- not a good look for a dainty young thing such as myself. On the other hand, the cabbage, sautéed with wine and caraway seeds, and the starchy potato dumpling were well executed. And the wiener tafelspitz ($16), boiled brisket with horseradish cream sauce, potato dumpling and white cabbage, offered an unwelcome surprise: the brisket was marbled with fat to the point of unsettling, and the feeble horseradish sauce had no kick to it.

Bistro Europa's excellent desserts -- which include strudel, crème brulee, Black Forest cake -- offered some redemption. But the fact remains that it's wise to stick to the stellar basics at Bistro Europa. For a party of two, your best bet is to split the wiener schnitzel and the maultaschen, enjoy a couple of pilsners and share a dessert. The whole deal should run to about $40 before tax and tip.

Bistro Europa
715 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22134
(703) 549-0533