Last fall, DCist assured you that you could sample Eric Ziebold’s cuisine at the CityZen lounge for less than $60. Though our penchant for drinks made it a stretch for us, we could certainly see how less thirsty diners could enjoy a pure eating experience without breaking the bank.

Fast forward to spring 2006. Don Rockwell files a post gushing about CityZen’s three-course tasting menu at the bar for $45. Said Rocks: “These are EXACTLY what you’d get if you ordered the same three courses in the dining room. . . Do you guys realize just how inexpensive this menu is?”

Notwithstanding Chef Ziebold’s credentials—one of Food and Wine's "Best New Chefs" of 2005, a Thomas Keller acolyte, and among Bon Appetit's "5 Chefs to Watch"—few tourists or locals are taking advantage of Ziebold's presence in the District. Rockwell reported that the bartenders thought only a few customers a week were ordering the tasting menu and, furthermore, in the winter, “multiple weeks would pass without serving any.”

Although the restaurant is somewhat isolated in the Mandarin Oriental over in Southwest, I still thought it was surprising and made a mental note to visit again soon. So this week, when a friend asked if I was free to join a group at the bar Saturday night, I jumped at the chance.

When I arrived, the dining room was booked. But aside from one couple already seated and a few women on their way out, the bar was indeed empty. My dinner companions who arrived earlier had already sampled drinks from the extensive options and perused the bar tasting menu, which included a choice of one of three appetizers, one of two entrees, and one of two desserts.

After we ordered, we quickly realized we were getting far more than we bargained for—in a good way. Almost immediately, Ziebold himself came out to alert us that one of the appetizers, the soft-boiled hen egg served with cured shoat leg (essentially, his rendition of ham and eggs) would take a half-hour to prepare. Was that OK with us? Um, yes.

Soon thereafter, the kitchen offered up an amuse of olive oil custard topped with pepper butter, as well as a sampling of pickled shad served with braised celery, potato crisps, and a ramp vinaigrette. Having been underwhelmed by shad in the past, I was surprised by how fresh and light it tasted, partly due to the ramps, which—like fiddleheads—I often associate with the freshness of spring. I also liked the highbrow/lowbrow combination of ingredients. Even though the shad was not a course on the tasting menu, it was the star of the evening for me.

Every course was served with flourish. A fleet of servers presented each diner his and her dish along with its accoutrements. My choices: a razor clam tempura appetizer served with a new potato salad; braised shoat shoulder with English peas and Abalone mushrooms; and artisanal cheeses for dessert. Though I doubted whether any of us could have gone wrong with our choices, in hindsight I wished I'd chosen the "ham and eggs." And I suspect that most diners would have preferred the s’more for dessert: Valrhona chocolate mousse, graham cracker and marshmallow, served with a salted caramel sauce. No matter. I’ll be sure to go back, albeit after the menu changes next month.

Still wary of posh CityZen? If you’re not a food freak or a high-roller, fear not. This is not a stuffy, snobby experience; it’s more like a spa for your eyes and palette. The room, though not Zen-like for everyone, has something that will please you. Last night, it may have been the cherry blossom displays, the soft lighting, the minimalist bar, or the fire sculpture behind it. In addition, the staff is helpful in discussing the wine, cooking techniques, or in-season ingredients, for example. Don’t be shy about asking questions. They know their stuff and want to educate you about food and drinks.

At the end of the meal, one in our group remarked his bill was half that of his last visit to the dining room, for the same quality and quantity. Rockwell had also described CityZen’s tasting menu at the bar as “the best deal in town.” Is it cheap? No. But a three-course dinner prepared by one of the city’s top chefs with drinks and tip for under $100? There aren’t many places in this city—let alone anywhere else—where that's feasible.

CityZen
Mandarin Oriental
1330 Maryland Avenue SW
(202) 787-6868

Photo courtesy of Crackers.