Although we find the D.C. area’s Jose Andres-induced tendency toward small plates occasionally irksome, Rabieng has adapted to this trend in a novel way. During Saturday and Sunday brunch, Rabieng showcases its interpretation of Bangkok’s numerous food stall delights on its “Thai Street Food Dim Sum Brunch Menu.”

We started off with their Pan Fried Jumbo Chive Dumplings. The outside of each of the two dumplings was appealingly browned and bubbled -- practically volcanic. Beneath the well done exterior, the inner layer was soft, thick, and doughy, and it housed a dense green mass of sauteed chives which were further soothed by their sweet soy dipping sauce.

The “Som Tom” Papaya and Carrot Salad, however, turned out to be somewhat of an underachiever. The shredded green papaya was served in a mild vinaigrette that had none of the heat and sour of our favorite renditions of this Thai classic.

The Grilled Green Curry Shrimp Satay arrived with two skewers, each of which had two shrimp speared along with several grilled vegetables. Instead of being overly sweet, their green curry had a fair amount of chili power.

Though their presentation was fairly artful, the Bangkok St. Peking Duck Rolls were a bit of a disappointment, as they were each wrapped in a soft flour tortilla instead of a lighter crepe. Nevertheless, the contents of roasted fatty duck, lengthy slivers of scallion, and hoisin sauce were still pleasing.

One of the true standouts was their Sticky Rice with Marinated Beef Strips. The sticky rice was a bit dry, which made it difficult to pair with the meat, but the strips of beef easily overcame this shortcoming. Their crispy exterior was dusted with a spicy mix of ginger and chilis that complemented the sweet sticky rice.

But our absolute favorite dish was the Rice Cake with Coconut Pork Sauce. These were not the bland and super-puffed rice cakes that were the bane of early '90s dieting. Rather, the rice kernels were slightly puffed and densely packed into a slender cake. The deep red sauce featured a mince of fatty pork in a rich coconut curry with a toss of fresh cilantro. The crunchy texture of the rice cakes and the velvety sauce easily make this Rabieng’s great contribution to D.C. area dining.

If you’re interested in extending your weekend tour of decadence, try one of their generous and potent mai tais, or if it’s a little too early in the day for such debauchery, a glass of refreshing guava nectar is a good Thai brunch substitute for orange juice.

The brunch menu is offered from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, and has about 30 small plates ranging in price from $2-$4.50. Two people should be well stuffed after enjoying six to eight dishes.

Rabieng
5892 Leesburg Pike
Falls Church, Va.
(703) 671-4222