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April 20, 2006

Donut Disturbed

Suddenly, it occurred to us that given the culinary talent in this city, perhaps a few our area's more creative minds pour an unhealthy amount of TLC into the creation of homemade donuts. Our quest for proprietary fried dough led us to Colorado Kitchen, Hotel Tabard Inn, and 2 Amys. Yes, we consumed 11 donuts this weekend so we might share our revelations with you. Here’s how it went:

At Colorado Kitchen, Chef Gillian Clark, who cooks brunch for everyone solo, takes the cake donut (usually not our favorite, but…) to new heights in three varieties: with powdered sugar, honey and toasted almonds, and with chocolate glaze. The powdered sugar variety brought forth the donut in its most elemental form: a very thick, crispy browned outside yielding to a moist cake inside. In the second version, the honey was sweet and light, acting mostly as an adhesive for the chopped almonds. The homemade milk chocolate glaze, made with Callebaut cocoa powder, was creamy, appropriately chocolatey, and light. Though the glaze is applied in one light coating, the effect is powerful. Donuts can be ordered in quantities of three or six, and a "Bucket O' Holes" in the powdered sugar variety, is also available. We paired our trio of fried treats with a classic beverage—Cheerwine, an old-school cherry soda that we thought was only available from enthusiasts, so we were thrilled to see it on offer at this off-the-beaten-path eatery.

At Tabard Inn, diners are presented with six (yes, six) medium-sized lightly-glazed specimens, and these definitely represented the most traditional variety of donuts. The porous, yeasty dough contrasted well with a topping of cinnamon sugar. A dish of vanilla whipped cream will beckon, but trust us, it’s totally unnecessary. While the spongy, airy nature of the dough and the fluffy cream combine to create a cream-puff effect, the piping hot, made-to-order donuts stand on their own just fine. The Tabard Inn also benefits from an outstanding bar menu. We recommend one of Tabard’s pulpy mimosas or its house beverage, the Cherry Thyme Fizz, a potent brunch mixture of cherry brandy, rosewater syrup, champagne, and a sprig of thyme. Be sure to go on Saturday for an early brunch, as the bar and dining area are usually near capacity.

At 2 Amys, a tray of donuts tempt brunch guests each weekend as they walk in to be seated. These, on the surface, look like typical fried, sugar-dusted donuts, but one bite into these eggy delights reveal something special. These medium-sized rings are made with a heavenly dough of lemon, cinnamon, and eggs (perhaps even an extra yolk, for that very yellow color). The fried crust is dark and thick, making for a sturdy home for the moist, delicate center. Each order comes with a complementary donut hole, an extra-concentrated dose of the rich treat. Please note: these donuts are not made to order; the kitchen puts out a finite supply, and when they’re gone, they’re gone. By 1 p.m., half the tray had already been devoured.

Colorado Kitchen
5515 Colorado Ave. NW
Washington, DC
(202) 545-8280

2Amys
3715 Macomb Street NW
Washington, DC
(202) 885-5700

Tabard Inn
1739 N Street NW
Washington, DC
(202) 785-1277


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Comments (16)

You found Cheerwine!!! In DC!!! I can't believe it! I grew up in the town that it is made-- you can never find it anywhere! This is amazing!

 

I think you can find Cheerwine at Wegmans grocery store in NoVA.

 

This is a delightfully delicious post; yay donuts!!

 

Whitey's in Arlington used to have great homemade donuts (glazed with a hint of orange) during Saturday and Sunday brunch before their tragic demise...

 

Heller's has tasty donuts as well.

 

Komi has a FANTASTIK mexican donut dessert!

 

I didn't know Two Amys had brunch. What else do they serve?

 

Head out 66 to the Linden exit and try the cinnamon donuts at the Apple House. They make them right in front of you. Get them while they're hot and enjoy the nirvana!

 

I love Cheerwine's very Achewood(http://www.achewood.com) design aesthetic.

 

How can this post not mention Komi? It's doughnut with a side of marscapone chocolate pudding is abso-freakin-lutely amazing.

 

EJB,
The donuts are only available during brunch time on Sunday. Aside from the donuts, only their regular menu is in effect.

 

Sadly, Cheerwine has done a re-design of their classic logo for most of their products, but they do still produce the original Cheerwine (made with pure cane sugar) in vintage style bottles (“On all occasions . . . It’s good taste!”) emblazoned with their classic logo. Thankfully, Colorado Kitchen offers the vintage bottle variety, which totally complements their old school Southern kitchen aesthetic. And if you’re a Cheerwine fiend, then be sure to check out this insane Cheerwine tribute site (just be sure to mute the volume on your computer before doing so): http://www.blakescheerwineoldies.com/

 

This is a round-up of weekend-only donutting. Komi offers its donuts every day as part of its regular dessert menu, and, therefore, it was deliberately excluded from our survey.

 

The best donuts I have had around here are from Reeve's Bakery on G St NW between 13 and 14. Soft and fluffy and taste oh so good... I like the glazed blueberry yum.

 

DCist Ari,

Nowhere in the story--neither the lede nor elsewhere--did the article say it was about "weekend-only donutting."

What it did say is that the food was consumed over the weekend. This doesn't suggest that the article was exclusively about weekend dining.

Otherwise, it was a good roundup--I definitely don't want to appear like I'm splitting hairs or being a jerk. Just offering some constructive criticism.

 

I agree that the weekend donutting theme should have been overtly stated in the opening.

My earlier clarification was meant as a corrective to the piece, and I certainly did not mean to come off like I was chastising you for missing something that wasn't obvious in the first place.

But, just in case anyone is still confused- all three places mentioned in this piece only offer their donuts on the weekend. Colorado Kitchen and Tabard Inn make them to order on Saturday and Sunday during brunch, while 2 Amys only offers its donuts on Sunday.

 
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