So many establishments abuse their signage with superlatives such as "World’s Best Cup of Coffee" that we typically ignore any such boasting when searching for quality grub. But occasionally some joint will be just dingy and dilapidated enough that a rusted sign proclaiming “Famous Roast Beef” will cause us to reconsider our position.

Hodge’s Sandwich Shop may be barely more than a shack, but it easily deserves as much acclaim as other classic slices of old school Washington like Ben’s Chili Bowl or the late Sholl’s Cafeteria.

According to the signs outside, as well as an old catering poster inside, Hodge’s has been around since 1898, though not always in its current location. The menu from 1944 posted to the right of the small fixin’s station seemed to confirm its vintage, listing one of their glorious roast beef sandwiches for a mere 75 cents. These days, it will set you back $5.45.

Although the menu posted over the counter lists a number of items, regulars know that Hodge’s really only excels at its trifecta of great sandwich making: roast beef carved from the steamship round, “smoked baked ham," and roast turkey.

The heat inside Hodge’s was a bit stifling, even on a fairly cool day. But when we spotted each of the three appealing hulks of meat idling in their roasting pans, our initial discomfort was soon forgotten. The efficient counterman quickly assembled three generous sandwiches with his deft carving, pausing only to ask, “With juice?”

The buns for each sandwich were coasted along the surface of each roasting pan, capturing just enough juice to add flavor without thoroughly saturating the soft buns.

Hodge’s fixin’s station is fairly minimalist, but the roast beef is the only sandwich that requires any dressing -- just a squirt or two of horseradish sauce. We grabbed a couple of cups of their housemade sweet tea before moving on to the consumption phase.

Each sandwich was stuffed with thick slabs of meat topped with progressively thinner slices. The roast beef sandwich, which can be ordered either medium or well-done, had the perfect ratio of meat to marbling. Though we appreciated its bite, the horseradish sauce was hardly a necessary enhancement, given the abundance of juice and robust beef flavor.

The turkey was tender and flavorful, the scattering of herbs and slices of celery in the roasting pan a visual prelude of what to expect. Because we had arrived after the lunch rush, all that remained of the turkey was a bit of leg and a few scattered shreds of meat from the earlier flurry of carving. Even then, the counterman was able to produce an estimable sandwich from mere remnants. And even more surprising, it was every bit as succulent as the bird we enjoy each Thanksgiving.

Though Hodge’s is best known for its roast beef, their ham sandwich absolutely blew us away. Its thick-cut pieces were sweet and smoky with just the right amount of fat and salt. We were ready to fight each other for more than our share.

Sadly, Hodge’s may soon suffer the same fate as its neighbor, AV Ristorante. The owner, who was not shy about proclaiming Hodge’s a “historic landmark," was nevertheless resigned to its eventual demise at the hands of developers abetting the city’s revitalization plan for "Mt. Vernon Triangle." He did not seem optimistic about re-opening Hodge’s in another location, stating that the return would hardly justify his investment. Though he was cagey about how long he expected Hodge’s to remain open, he seemed to think that they’ll be around for at least another year.

Hodge’s offers its roast beef and roast turkey sandwiches Monday through Friday, but its roast baked ham is only available as a special on Fridays.

Hodge’s is far too small to offer seating inside, but they do have several tables under a sizeable awning just outside. They’re only open Monday through Friday until 3:30 pm, though it’s probably a good idea to call for confirmation.

Hodge’s Sandwich Shop
616 New York Avenue NW
(202) 628-0606