PS 7's for All Mankind?

2006_1026ps7.JPG
In a year full of high-profile restaurant openings, perhaps no restaurant's opening was more highly anticipated among the foodie crowd than PS 7's. Why? The Penn Quarter restaurant would pair former Vidalia chef Peter Smith with 2006 RAMMY award winner and former Notti Bianche general manager Danny Boylen. And how couldn't that be a winner?

Not much more than a month after its opening, we've heard through the grapevine that Boylen has parted ways with Smith and PS 7's -- inevitably leading us to draw comparisons to expert mixmaster Derek Brown's abrupt departure from the troubled Agraria not long after having been hired away from Firefly. And a recent visit to PS 7's bar may very well explain why Boylen -- who didn't respond when we contacted him -- made an exit.

Because PS 7's opened so recently, we thought we’d have to push through the crowds to find friends at a peak hour on a weekend night. Instead, we found plenty of room in the 40-seat bar -- an alcove with floor-to-ceiling windows that face I Street. Although the then-employed Boylen was an approachable host who had trained his staff well (when I asked for a Lillet -- which he didn’t have -- his assistant insightfully offered Vya, a vermouth aperitif as an the alternative), getting the attention of staff often took a while and occasionally irritated our companions. We could chalk it up to the fact that Smith's wife and her entourage were eating in the bar room, though service was slow for their table as well.

Aside from the mediocre service, the bar's drink list was interesting. The lounge features specialty beers along the lines of Allagash White. Cocktails are listed as 7 Classics -- martini, old-fashioned, and sidecar, among them -- and 7 Creations, one of which is the "Skylark," made with Campari, Plymouth gin, grapefruit juice, lemon bitters, and sugared lemon zest. Wines are served at just the right temperatures -- not too warm for reds and not too cool for whites.

Although the lounge menu is playful, with references to shots, sliders, and chips, there's nothing rec room or low-brow on the menu. We stuck with what was recommended to us: the tuna sliders and veal cheek chips. Our bartender even went so far as to suggest how to eat the tuna sliders, which can be ordered in increments of three ($9), six ($18), or nine ($27): "Take off the top of the bun and eat the tuna tartar open-faced. Then finish the Parker House bun. It's worth it."

The menu described PS 7's version of the Parker House rolls as "Naomi's soon-to-be-famous Parker House rolls." The menu's right; they're that good. Originating at the Boston landmark, Parker House rolls are also coveted by diners at CityZen, whose rendition is described by DCist Food and Drink Editor Michael Mugmon and others as nothing short of amazing. Are PS 7’s better than CityZen’s? Though the verdict’s still out, it’s a far less expensive trip to PS 7’s than it is to CityZen, where the rolls are only available in the dining room.

The veal cheek chips ($12) are the standouts on the lounge menu. Once we got past the fact that they look like potato chips -- these aren't veal cheeks tucked into ravioli, or served atop a salad or something -- we even considered ordering a second plate. However, be warned: they're served very hot, as they're braised and deep fried, served with white balsamic, cherry and rosemary dipping sauce. Other items available on the lounge menu include a "quad" of soup shots which changes nightly ($12), wild mushroom spring rolls ($10) a "study" of foie gras ($18) and fried oysters of the day ($14).

Should you wish to try dessert, we'd recommend sharing Little Sins such as mini-donuts and dipping sauce or the mini-brûlée ($7). Those with a bigger sweet tooth can sink into one of the Big Sins, such as the dark chocolate linzer cake with chocolate genoise and mousse, or the fall-spiced crème frite with a Grenache-poached Bartlett pear sorbet ($12).

If you're concerned about quantity as well as quality, save the lounge for drinks, grazing, and dessert. Unlike the Cityzen lounge, whose tasting menu is one of the city's best deals, the dining room at PS 7's is where you'll get more for your money.

PS 7's
777 I Street NW
(202) 742-8550

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Comments (10) [rss]

What I would really love is less foodie restaurants, more great food dives like ben's chili bowl, the old whitey's in arlington.

All these pretentious new restaurants- ugh. More of the same, more of the same.

I'm curious as to why you can't find plenty of dives? There are tons of them throughout the city and the burbs. It's nice to see DC take a stab and try and have some more classy, unique places much like our big brother and sister cities. It's not a dive, but have you had the food at Bourbon? Simply the best comfort food in the District.

Sounds like a libel suit waiting to happen... Oh! Duh! That's right. The poster is "anonymous". Not very nice at all....

It would be interesting to trace the IP address of the previous two comments back to their source. This is libel in its purest form.

It would be interesting to trace the IP address of the previous two comments back to their source. This is libel in its purest form.

It would be interesting to trace the IP address of the previous two comments back to their source. This is libel in its purest form.

It would be interesting to trace the IP address of the previous two comments back to their source. This is libel in its purest form.

I've just deleted two comments from this thread which contained potentially libelous accusations that we can't verify at this time. Anyone who wants to come forward to share either side of this story with DCist, or to complain about their removal, should contact me directly via email.

seriously??? you want more shitty food???? have you been to adams morgan? like ever? how about more couture food at consignment prices. something like what saint -ex and bar pilar are trying to do.

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