First of all, this is another suburban restaurant review, so let’s just get that out of the way. Second, yes, we went to the steakhouse and got the chicken. Third, this is a time of upheaval for Ray's the Classics, so we can’t make any promises. Executive chef Michael Hartzer left after New Year's Eve to do his own thing (though we presume that, of course, had absolutely nothing to do with much beloved owner Michael Landrum). We also read about an unfortunate staff walkout the day after we dined there. Hmm.

Making a reservation for a restaurant in Silver Spring felt slightly unnatural, but that’s the only way to get in on a Friday or Saturday night. Calling a couple days in advance was sufficient to snag DCist a 7 p.m. spot, but larger parties should allow a week or two. If you do happen to drop in, you’ll be glad to know they’ve relaxed a little and now offer the full menu in the bar. It gets so crowded around the bar that you can’t lift your fork to your mouth, but if you happen through early in the evening it’s an option.

The décor is bare bones. It’s as if they haven’t unpacked yet because they’re not sure if they’re staying. The most interesting thing to rest your eyes on is the AFI Silver’s marquee across the street. Yet Ray’s gives off the vibe that it’s snootier and less accessible than it actually is. Sides are priced separately, but that’s a refreshing change from being stuck with what the restaurant deems a good pairing – especially if they get all huffy about substitutions. Priced at $3-$5, one could still have an à la carte side dish with an appetizer and entrée for under $30.

For starters, our server recommended the crab cakes and deviled eggs. We wish we had taken him up on the latter. We picked at our spicy cashews and bread (served with olive oil, not their famed spreads) for a whole 25 minutes before our battered crab cakes arrived accompanied by a citrus remoulade. Between the unexpected fritters and the teeny pieces of cartilage we had to pick out, we’d have to rate the cakes as just OK. Nothing special.

Ray’s steaks are hand-picked from the “most costly beef available,” yet “priced as gently as possible” at $22-$32. And what we saw the waiters carrying to nearby tables looked impressive. We, however, decided to save the steak for a trip to the Arlington original, Ray’s the Steaks. Instead we feasted on Maryland Iron Skillet Fried Chicken, brined and dipped in a buttermilk batter. Our deep golden half-chicken was well-seasoned, juicy, and practically greaseless, and the meat pulled easily from the bone.

For a side dish, we chose the four-cheese macaroni and cheese with gruyere, cheddar, parmesan, and our choice of bleu cheese or mozzarella melted on top. We were served a gratin dish full of cheesy gemelli, baked to a slight crisp at the outer edges. The stringy mozzarella on top was more of an impediment than a flourish, as it didn’t match the consistency of the rest of the dish and made it hard to serve. Three-cheese mac, minus the mozz, would’ve been just as yummy.

The check came promptly, and we didn’t feel rushed out the door. Other than the lags between courses, we enjoyed our experience at Ray’s. We thought they’d been open long enough to work out the service kinks, but given what we’ve heard in recent weeks, they may need just a little more time and TLC.

Ray's the Classics
8606 Colesville Road
Silver Spring, Md.
(301) 588-7297