You know a place must have something going for it if there are people lined up outside in freezing weather waiting to order their food. That something might be the fact that the place is tiny, but when it comes to the Greek Deli, that is only part of the equation. The other is that the food is top notch.

Those of you who work in the vicinity of 19th and L, NW probably already know about the Greek Deli. You've likely been eating there once a week for years. For those of you a little further afield, the Greek Deli is a hole in the wall wedged in between Nooshi and its carryout—but it is well worth a trip downtown. Owned and operated by Kostas Fostieris, the Greek Deli is the place to go if you're jonseing for authentic dolmades, moussaka, or gyros; or if you're looking for a time to chat up your fellow cubicle drones. Don't be dissuaded by the line either, it moves surprisingly fast. Besides, if you can wait for food at Potbelly or Cosi, you can damn well wait for something not out of a can.

Ordering your food at the Greek Deli can be a little stressful, between the seemingly impatient cashier (who is actually really nice) and the crush of humanity behind you, the pressure can really build. More than once I've reached the front of the line with an order ready to go, only to see the cornucopia of that day's menu spread before me, hurling me back into indecision. But, when the guy behind you in line is giving you the "I hate you, you slow asshole" look, you learn to trust your gut feelings.

The good part about it is that you can't really go wrong in ordering. The gyro comes on a slightly toasted seasoned pita with succulent meat and an abundance of garlicky tzatziki. The baked chicken—usually front and center among the chafing dishes behind the counter—is juicy and flavorful, and if you get it as a platter, is enough for at least two meals. For days like today, the chicken avgolemono is the perfect soup; its light lemon flavor contrasts nicely with its silky texture. Plus, the soup is unmistakably homemade, an attribute that makes this soup that much more warm and comforting.

Even deli staples like tuna salad are superlative at the Greek Deli. Wrapped in the same seasoned pita as the gyro, you get two giant scoops of the tuna salad that won't leave you hungry again at 3 p.m. The salad itself is light on the mayonnaise, so the flavors of tuna and celery don't get drowned out by the dressing; it's just right. The same goes for the egg salad. This is probably the best item on the menu for your dollar, and with tangy feta cheese, it's the second best rendition of the sandwich in the city (falling just behind the version from the clubhouse at Langston Golf Course).

You can also get salads to go and individual servings of hummus or greek-style yogurt from the refrigerator case. If you can't decide, order whatever is on special for the day. Listed above the register, the specials can range from a weekly meatloaf to a dish with baked tomatoes and soft bread–which resembles pizza in a bowl—that I've only seen twice. Specials generally go early and it's not uncommon to plan on ordering the special only to see the sign come down before you get to the front of the line.

You can easily escape the Greek Deli for less than $10, but a platter-sized meal and a drink will probably run you $12 or so. The seating is limited to three or four tables on the sidewalk when the weather's good. If you go a little later in the afternoon, you might even get a chance to chat with Fostieris, who usually grabs time for a smoke outside after the lunch rush. Last time I ran into him I asked him what was good that day. "Everything," he replied, and he was right.

The Greek Deli
1120 19th St., NW
(202) 296-2111
Metro: Farragut North/Farragut West/Dupont Circle

Photo from Melissa32, used with permission.