This post written by DCist Food contributor Analiese Bendorf

While Washingtonians managed to evade the worst of the country's winter weather, there is one thing that blew into town that we'll gladly welcome. That thing is Il Mulino, a branch of New York's Italian restaurant by the same name. It's known for its gargantuan, garlicky portions and is poised to take D.C.'s upscale dining scene by storm.

The restaurant was originally founded in New York's Greenwich Village in 1981, and has since expanded to eight locations nationally and internationally (from Aspen to Tokyo), now including D.C.'s very own outpost at 1110 Vermont Avenue, NW. Named the number one Italian restaurant in New York City for over 20 years by Zagat survey, Il Mulino is publicized as "a celebration of delectable cuisine, exquisite presentation, and pampering from the attentive and polite staff." A recent visit confirmed that there is, in fact, a lot to celebrate about this upscale Italian destination. (Full disclosure: My reservation was booked by Il Mulino's PR rep, and it's clear the staff knew I was there to critique. However, my experience is bolstered by the restaurant's reputation for good food and great service.)

The Il Mulino experience begins the moment you step foot in the door. A smiling host whisks off your coat and ushers you to the wood-paneled bar. (We were a few minutes early for our reservation.) Be sure to scan the room for D.C. power brokers and take in the scenery as you sip a scotch on the rocks. Walls are adorned with tapestries and warmly lit from the glow of hanging chandeliers. The subtle tones are broken up by a colorful—almost Warhol-like—display of Italian foodstuffs: large pumpkin-shaped casks of grappa, oversize cans of tomatoes, and a mise en place where servers add the final touches of sauce and spice. It's a feast for the eyes, hinting at the wonders that await you.

As soon as we were seated, the complimentary antipasto—one of Il Mulino's signature traits—began to appear. Among the offerings were a luscious bruschetta, fresh chilled mussels, hunks of aged Parmesan Reggiano, salty discs of soppresatta, and an assortment of bread and toast, all of which disappeared into our mouths as quickly as they had arrived. A plate of limp, greasy fried zucchini was the only anomaly in the otherwise well-executed array.

Appetizers were similarly impressive. The langostino were lightly fried, the buttery nuggets enveloped in a crispy shell, and perfectly complimented by a small mound of risotto. My favorite though, was the baked artichoke with pancetta, the tender artichoke flesh offset beautifully by the tang of the cured meat.

Known for its traditional Italian entrees, liberally portioned and simply prepared, the restaurant boasts an extensive menu of pastas and entrees, inspired by the rustic flavors of Abruzzi. Spaghettini Bolognese is a standout, as are the langoustines and the rack of lamb. The filetto di manza (filet mignon) was so tender I barely had need for my steak knife. Veal Parmigiano, though slightly tough, was elegant in its simplicity, a thin layer of meat topped with basil-flecked marinara and melted Parmesan. The meal is complimented by an extensive wine list, featuring over 200 selections, most of them (what else?) Italian.

Desserts were not an afterthought, showcasing the same attention to detail as the rest of the meal. Ricotta cheesecake revealed a hint of caramel and its delicate consistency probably ruined me for life, as far as cheesecakes go. Its light, almost crumbly texture was a revelation compared to the fat gooey slabs I usually associate with the dessert. Tiramisu was also on target, anchored by ladyfingers just splashed with espresso, and buoyed by a fluffy dollop of cream. Just when you think you can't possibly ingest anything else, a complimentary glass of the signature house grappa appears, providing a cool, bracing palate cleanser to end the meal.

Service was nothing short of impeccable (again, it's hard to tell how much of that was for my benefit as a reviewer, but it's clear the wait staff is well-trained). Tuxedoed servers flutter pleasantly throughout the dining room, sometimes calling affably to each other in Italian, and enthusiastically fix Béchamel sauce and zabaione (a delicate custard dessert) table side. The hospitality extends far beyond the perfunctory: asking for directions to the restroom will very nearly yield a hug, and nary a patron left Il Mulino without a hearty handshake from the maître de, David Shan (formerly of Primi Piatti). "Ciao! Ciao!" he sings as they reluctantly make their way out the door, hesitant to leave this garlic-perfumed oasis.

We lingered over dinner for over three hours, but the restaurant (which opens to the public on February 26) will also feature a more fast-paced lunch service for the downtown power lunch crowd. Entrees (not including specials) will set you back $27-$36, appetizers $7-$20, and desserts $12-$14.

Il Mulino
1110 Vermont Ave., NW (Between L & M Streets)
Washington, DC 20005
202-293-1001