Refreshingly Retro
With the ink barely dry on the 2007 RAMMY nominations, we pored over the list of nominees searching for one that hadn’t already been reviewed to death or hadn't already been visited by every serious eater in the city. Who wants to read one more critique of Restaurant Eve? Citronelle? They’re amazing, we get it, and as soon as we get that advance from Doubleday we’ll go check out those damned tasting menus.
But there, tucked below the headliner awards a name caught our attention -- La Chaumiere? The old-school bastion of classic French country cooking had surfaced as one of the five best informal dining experiences of the year. Apparently, Chef Patrick Orange and his crew warranted a visit.
So unadorned and unpretentious that you’ve probably shuffled past it on M Street countless times without taking notice, La Chaumiere translates from French to “the old cottage” or “the country inn” a moniker that instantly makes sense as you enter the tiny dining room outfitted in exposed beams, whitewashed walls and a centrally located, open fireplace.
Like the décor, the menu speaks to simple, time-tested country themes. An appetizer of garlicky and earthy escargot is served red-hot, en coquille, while a rustic terrine of rabbit and red wine comes studded with pistachios and garnished with tangy cornichons. The quenelle de brochet, a pillowy pike dumpling draped in rich lobster sauce is an unembellished yet decadent Lyonnais classic. And when asked to judge the authenticity of the Emmenthaler cheese soufflé, our French dining companion smiled wistfully and said, “It actually tastes….just like my grandmother would make.”
When it comes to the mains however, La Chaumiere stands alone. Offal enthusiasts can get their fix via the tripe stewed in Calvados or calf’s brains au beurre noir. Or you can go big. I’ve been searching and I still can’t find another French joint in town that serves tete de veau. To make it you peel the face off a young cow, fill it with the tongue and thymus gland of said cow, and then roll the whole thing up and cook it in bouillon. I very, very nearly ordered it after the waiter informed me that the sweetbreads had run out. I was eyeing it on the menu but in a moment of hesitation I suddenly blurted out, “I’ll take the rabbit.” Well, maybe next time. I can’t imagine many of those are flying out of the kitchen, but it’s nice to know it’s available if ever the urge should strike.
Sadly, the rabbit saddle stuffed with spinach and carrot was the wrong choice. Bland, pale pink and without any exceptional flavors save for the tasty reduction that accompanied it, I quickly moved to poaching bites from my companion’s plates. The venison medallions with a wild berry reduction were a huge table favorite; dark, sensual and highlighted by berries and a satiny demi glace, we took turns mopping up the juices with any stray bits of bread we could find.
The wine and desserts are also classically Gallic. We polished off several bottles of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the liquid velvet of the southern Rhône, before staggering into glasses of Calvados to accompany the desserts. Passing up the chocolate and the Grand Marnier soufflés, we dug into a buttery apple tart drizzled with caramel – a nice complement to the Calvados – and flaky profiteroles crammed with vanilla ice cream and topped with warm chocolate sauce.
Washington is, frankly, awash in French restaurants. Where La Chaumiere distinguishes itself is in the shameless, steady devotion to the venerable classics and the oft-neglected, less popular bits of the animal. There may be flashier bistros and trendier brasseries, but if you’ve got a hankering for calf’s face, where else you gonna go? If you've tired of flash and self-importance and are looking for a dining experience that is dedicated to time-honored, well-executed cuisine, La Chaumiere fits the bill.
Dinner for 4 with wine, tax and tip: $350
La Chaumiere
2813 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20007
202-338-1784
Photo courtesy of flickr user cc3010