May 1, 2007

M'Dawg Haute Dogs: Condimentastic

This post is by DCist Contributor Eddie Kim

Maaaaaah Dog"A hotdog is a hotdog."

Audacious–if not strange–words coming from Tony Tabdili, co-investor and gourmet hotdog slinger at M’Dawg Haute Dogs in Adams Morgan. Would you walk into the Westminster Dog Show and say a shitzu is the same as a pug? A chihuahua the same as a great dane? Certainly not. And just like the many breeds of dogs in the world, there are just as many ways to produce and prepare "hotdogs." But judging from the lines inside establishments such as late-night favorite Amsterdam Falafelshop, we’ve learned that DC residents value the variety and condiments that spice up life.

M’Dawg Haute Dogs is the latest addition to the “toppings bar” genre from Scott and Arianne Bennett, who also own the Amsterdam Falafelshop directly across 18th Street, NW. Partnered with Gregory Hill, head chef at David Greggory Restaurant, the trio chose 13 gourmet wieners representing every corner of the country and several foreign locales as well. Chicagoans have their red hots ($4 or 2 for $6), rippers ($4.95) for the New Jerseyites, and the half-smoke ($4.95) for the DCists.

But according to Tabdili, man cannot survive on buns and hotdogs alone, "it’s all about the toppings." Our meal at M’Dawg was delineated into two experiences: going "downtown" or "uptown." The downtown option, free with any hotdog, provided the bare minimum of toppings: ketchup, mustard, tomato wedges, chopped onions, and relish. A $1 surcharge per hotdog allows access to the "uptown" homemade toppings bar–a reduction from the much griped about $2 charge when M’Dawg first opened.

A sampling of their hotdogs proved Tony correct. The red hots, though a Chicago standard, lacked personality and bite with the standard mustard and onions. Conspicuously, the red hots were cooked on a roller grill just behind the toppings bar–the kind you would see at a 7-11 and question the age of the dogs languishing there. On the other hand, the second red hot took on a whole new dimension when dressed with emerald relish (shipped from Chicago), mustard, onions, celery salt, tomatoes, and sport peppers–the standard ingredients for a Chicago-style dog. Take this as proof that hot dogs, expensive or not, are really all about the condiments.

If you’re used to the chili half-smoke from the Weenie Beenie or Ben’s Chili Bowl, then M’Dawg’s half-smoke will be a change of pace. On first glance, the M’Dawg half-smoke was noticeably larger than the other two’s dogs, large enough to satisfy most cravings, but greedy in taking up valuable space for toppings. Instead of topping the dog with the traditional chili, we tried the spicy dog slaw and a bit of wasabi mayo. The spice and crispness of the slaw and mayo was a perfect complement to the fat content of the half-smoke–clearly much higher than the typical hotdog, if one is judging by the fat globules hiding inside.

Our last two dogs were "The BJ" garlic sausage ($5.35) and "The Glove" ($5.35), a beef dog wrapped in black pepper bacon. A creamy frites sauce and mushrooms in garlic butter topped the garlic sausage, making sure that our breath would reek for the rest of the evening, but leave us totally satisfied. The BJ was by far our favorite . In contrast, no topping could salvage the Glove’s soggy bacon covering and plain beef frank. Our side order of cheese fries did not fare well either. Expecting the light “frites” from Amsterdam, instead we received a boat of crinkle-cut fries that may have come from the bottom of a store-bought bag. Adding an “uptown” option could be a draw for French fry aficionados.

If it seems like we gorged ourselves on too many hotdogs for one night, well, we did. Adding on the fries and a drink, our bill topped the $30 mark for two people. Unfortunately our wallets could not bear the additional pain of testing the Kobe beef hotdog, the "Kobe Bryant," which costs $20, but still manages to ensnare 50-60 adventurous diners per month, according to Tabdili.

A bit larger than its falafel counterpart across the street, M’Dawg—pronounced "mah dog" for all you readers mouthing the Hanson-esque “mmm-dog” throughout the review—still shares the same cozy eating environment. The red, yellow, and green walls are reminiscent of the three basic hotdog condiments, while donated pictures of local dogs adorn the table tops. Adding to the playful atmosphere of the restaurant, tiny tasting spoons are available if you can’t decide among their 20+ toppings or 8 different types of mustard. Although real dogs are not allowed inside, doggie treats are also available.

M’Dawg is open from noon to midnight Sunday and Monday, until 2:30 a.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and until 4 a.m. on the weekend.

M'Dawg Haute Dogs
2418 18th Street, NW
202 328-8284
Metro: Woodley Park/Adams Morgan Zoo or Dupont Circle rail, or the 98 and 90-92-93 bus lines


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Comments (30)

Finally! a real chili-dog! I'm so going! Thanks DCist! You made my shitty week!

 

I've never been so stoked to eat a hot dog. I'm gonna check it out tonight.

 

A roller grill, really? DC is just not a hot dog town and a cutesy "hot dog concept restaurant" isn't going to change that. Mail ordering a case of sport peppers does not make a Chicago dog. Maybe one day I'll stumble on a place that serves a real Vienna beef char-dog, but until then I'll stick with Amersterdam Falafelshop--which tastes like the real thing.

 

I ate there about a month ago and thought it was disgusting. Everything, from the dog to the bun, was not good. The chili was gross too. My Coke wasn't too bad though.

 

I'm kosher so this doesn't help much, but do they have NYC-style onion sauce topping? that shit is awesome!

(search google for "onion sauce new york hot dog")

 

Unless they've drastically improved in the past few months, I think Gross is right. Expensive, sloppy, and the condiments blow.

And I've been known to indulge in a good Georgia slaw dog, but wasabi mayo got no bidness bein on a dog, yo. But hey, whatever your trip is.

 

As a Chicagoan, methinks I will be disappointed. But I can't call it out until I try it. Oh, for a Hot Doug's in this town!

http://www.hotdougs.com/

 

I went their last night and I had two veggie dogs on whole wheat buns. Absolutely delish!

 

I have to agree with Monkey. I tried M'Dawg's once and really found it to be pretty underwhelming - $10 for a hot dog and fries is just frankly way too much, even with a choice of toppings. The owners get away with expensive falafels because falafels are a relatively novel item that you can't easily make at home (and are vegetarian-friendly), but I don't really see this place making it. What do you guys think - are people willing to pay that much for a hot dog? Any idea how they're doing so far?

 

The owners get away with expensive falafels because falafels are a relatively novel item that you can't easily make at home

1. Open box.
2. Add hot water.
3. Form into patties.
4. Fry.
5. PROFIT

Even if you're a quadruple amputee, you can train your helper monkey to do this. You might have to pick some fur and feces out of the falafel, but you can tell your friend that those are "flavor crystals." And it will probably taste better than M'Dawg's halfsmoke.

 

A roller grill, really? DC is just not a hot dog town and a cutesy "hot dog concept restaurant" isn't going to change that. Mail ordering a case of sport peppers does not make a Chicago dog. Maybe one day I'll stumble on a place that serves a real Vienna beef char-dog, but until then I'll stick with Amersterdam Falafelshop--which tastes like the real thing.

[3] Posted by: Barry_S

you people will bitch about anything.

 

you people will bitch about anything.

Isn't that the whole point of the comments section?

 

I was sooooooo disappointed in M'Dawg. As a Louisianian, I am used to Lucky Dogs on the streets of New Orleans, and what I got at M'Dawg just doesn't compare. Cheese sauce instead of real cheese? And the bun fell apart immediately. Sloppy, not tasty, and very overpriced.

 

you people will bitch about anything.

Isn't that the whole point of the comments section?

[12] Posted by: Hill Rat | May 2, 2007 10:20 AM

ummmm, no?

funny how people feel it necessary to "comment" only when they feel like complaining.

 

you people will bitch about anything.

Isn't that the whole point of the comments section?

[12] Posted by: Hill Rat | May 2, 2007 10:20 AM


ummmm, no?

funny how people feel it necessary to "comment" only when they feel like complaining.

[14] Posted by: steve | May 2, 2007 10:35 AM

Dear Sirs,

I would like to complain about people who complain about people who complain. It's about time something was done about it.

[crushed by 16 ton weight]

 

Well, while in fairness I did complain about what I think is overpriced hot dogs, I'm also interested in whether people think this is going to be a viable business model. Despite Monkey's description of his namesake being able to produce falafel, I still think the success of the Amsterdam place is predicated on falafel's status as an unusual food item that (yes) is more difficult to prepare yourself. To contrast that, most of us have been eating hot dogs since we were kids, they're readily available in many places, and they're exceptionally easy to make at home. I personally don't think the place is going to succeed (though as an Adams Morgan resident I'd like to see locally-owned businesses do well); but I'm curious and ask again, what do you guys think? Are you all willing to regularly pay for these hot dogs? Does anyone know how this place is doing so far?

 

Agree with the "disappointed" comments. Had the kosher dog a little while back, and it's nothing more than a generic Hebrew National plus crappy bun for $5. Meh.

 

Steve - Were you born without a sense of humor or did you lose it in an accident?

 

dude, whatever. keep on bitching about hot dogs in the dcist comments section. it's getting a lot accomplished!

 

I'm with steve. Before I discovered the dcist comment section, I used to beat my helper monkey viciously a dozen times a day and even throw lit matches at his head. Now, I'm down to one or two canings, and only when he forgets the proper shriek when he answers the phone or when he forgets to put a pickeled olive in my gibson. Thank you, dcist!

 

And by "helper monkey" I mean "swollen 11-inch jesuit."

 

Steve - I have three points to make:

1. I didn't complain about hot dogs, I merely affirmed people's right to bitch in the comments section of DCist.
2. You didn't answer my question; but if the memory of the tragic accident involving Bob Saget, jumper cables attached to your nut sack, and a book of MadLibs that left you humor impaired is too painful to talk about, we understand.
3. Responding to a question with "whatever", pretty much always makes you sound like a toothless Ricki Lake reject.

Cheers,

Hill Rat

 

While it may not be perfect, this place is a welcome addition to 18th Street. Their half-smokes are damn tasty. If I had to choose, though, I'd still lean toward the Falafelshop. That's some damn fine falafel!

 

The pricing has always deterred me from trying this place out. I can go to Spike's in Boston and get a fully-topped dog, a generous serving of fries, and a Coke for five bucks and a quarter. Why can't we make that business model work here?

 

It's pricey, but I live close and am happy to have a place I can go to when the need arises. I see their target market is being the same as Jumbo slice--drunk people. So many of the concerns about tastiness can go out the window. The drunk's palate is not fickle. I don't drink on 18th street, but I still frequent the place for the occasional dog. They aren't the best dogs I've had, but people's memories of their fave hot dogs are a highly subjective topic--perhaps paired in memory with liesure adn druinking actuivities that favorably enhance the memory. Anyone ever see that awesome PBS special on america's hot dogs?

My problem with buying a pack of decent hot dogs is that I then feel inclined to eat them all. So I'm down with paying a bit too much for a single hotdog. I'll put blue cheese on anything, so the place is allright by me.

 

Boston is wicked awesome.

 

My problem with buying a pack of decent hot dogs is that I then feel inclined to eat them all.

I have the exact same problem whenever I go to a brothel.

If Fenty's plan to expand street vendor licensing from hundreds to thousands of vendors succeeds, the decent $5 lunch business model might work after all. Unless the pushcart mafia has their way.

 

Went to M'Dawg last month and thought it was not at all worth the money- the half smoke was OK but the other 2 dogs we bought weren't very good (had to send one back for being cold and the fries were only ok as mentioned).
Glad I live closer to Bens.

 

I've been to M'Dawg. I wanted to love it, overpriced hotdogs, foofy toppings and all -- but the fact that the hotdogs aren't grilled just ruined it for me. If I wanted a roller dog, I'd go to 7-Eleven ...

 

Only in DC could someone screw up a hot dog stand.

Everything is overpriced, a $1.00 extra for condiments?, and not all that tasty.

At least with Ben's and Weenie Beenie thay are what they are and are not trying to fancy themselves up. Give me one of theior half smokes any day.

 
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