May 7, 2007
First Look: Brasserie Beck
For the last few weeks you couldn't read any D.C.-area food publication without seeing something about Robert Wiedmaier's Brasserie Beck. And all before it even opened. From Wiedmaier guest hosting Todd Kliman's chog, two pre-opening mentions in DCist's Weekly Feed, and frequent but casual mentions by The Washington Post and the blogosphere. And here Beck's is being written about yet again. Whoever the restaurant's publicist is, she's sure earning her keep.
The best way to start at Beck's is an order of moules frites, choosing from three options: white wine, parsley and garlic; curry & apple; and fennel & chorizo sausage. If you're feeling a little flush, throw in the charcuterie: a collection of rabbit rillettes, country pate, prosciutto, salami and speck.
The moules frites in white wine were excellent, though my party was disappointed to find size variations from large and plump to almost non-existent. I did find myself spooning the broth onto the excellent baguettes and enjoying every bit of brininess, however. The dish was accompanied by three flavors of mayonnaise – regular, rose marie (ketchup mixed with mayo), and curry. The curry mayo was so good I wish I could get a big tub to take home and eat with a spoon when I'm feeling a little down.
Beck has a beer sommelier to navigate folks through the list of over 50--predominantly Belgian--beers. There are some treats on tap like Delirium Tremens, De Koninck, and Houblon Chouffe. Our sommelier recommended the Lindeman's Gueuze Cuvée René, which is a lambic. Its small bubbles and golden lightness are why gueuzes are called the champagne of beers. It was a great palate cleanser to wash away the richness of the charcuterie, and it paired nicely with the mussels as well.
Instead of ordering an entree, I decided to go with two appetizers, the pea soup with veal cheek meatballs, and duck confit with pomme (apple) puree. The meatballs are presented in a bowl with a separate copper pot of pea soup, which the server poured over the top. It was exceedingly fragrant, and the meatballs were flavorful independent of the creamy, delicious soup. The duck confit was one of the highlights of the meal. The first taste is sweet and fruity and finishes with a mellow, salty duck flavor without the strong gameyness that is sometimes present in the fowl.
Every entree that our group tried , which included the choucroute en croute and the lamb shank with cannellonicannellini beans, received rave reviews. Our side of potato gratin with pork belly was disappointing, however: the potatoes were a bit too firm, and the pork belly lacked the fatty richness usually associated with it.
After the heights of the savory dishes, dessert was a bit of a letdown. Flemish rice pudding with its bruleed top was too sweet, and the Belgian bread pudding was not as custardy as had been hoped for, although we did like its use of dark chocolate rather than milk. The one highlight was the pear tarte tatin with its buttery crust and caramelized pears. The crust strikes a fine balance between flaky on the outside and toothsome on the inside.
The service was pleasant and friendly, but there were a few minor kinks that need to be worked out. The charcuterie was brought out to the table without explanation of the items, and there were a few issues with getting the appropriate silverware. It's still in its early days, and it may be that they just need a little time to figure out their rhythm. Hopefully it's nothing a little training won't fix.
It has been noted by both WaPo and the Washingtonian that there is a trend in the area of high-profile chefs going back to basics. Cathal Armstrong (Restaurant Eve) started the trend in the area with Eamonn's, a Dublin Chipper. He was followed closely by Michel Richard (Citronelle) with Central, and soon Ris Lacoste (1789) will be opening an unnamed bistro. If the delightful first week of Brasserie Beck says anything, Robert Wiedmaier might just be giving the rest of them a real run for their money.
Entrees average $20, appetizers $12 and desserts $7.
Brasserie Beck
1101 K St. NW
202.408.1717
Metro: McPherson Square, Metro Center
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Unless they're making noodles out of beans, I think you mean canneLLINI beans.
Noted. Thanks!
iirc De Koninck is no longer on tap. It has been replaced with Kwak.
Will Beck be performing there this weekend? Do they have Beck's or Beck's light on tap?
i love curry mayo! do any other places in dc serve this?
One of the dipping sauces at Eammon's in Alexandria is essentially a curry mayo.
I walk past the new BB every day on my way to and from work and it drives me absolutely bonkers that they have a clock outside of their front door with the wrong time on it. If you can't pay attention to a detail like clocks being set to the right time, then how am I to assume that you can pay attention to your food. And while the indoor clocks may be set to different times on purpose (I don't know if they are), the one on the street should be on D.C. time and it's not!
It has been noted by both WaPo and the Washingtonian that there is a trend in the area of high-profile chefs going back to basics. Cathal Armstrong (Restaurant Eve) started the trend in the area with Eamonn's, a Dublin Chipper.
Didn't the lunch grill at Galileo, the front room at Palena, and 2 Amy's all predate this (nevermind Pizzeria Paradiso and the string of earlier Roberto Donna ventures)?
i believe the pomme puree with the roulade of duck confit is actually a potato puree, not apple (at least, that's what it tasted like when we had it earlier tonight).
Good! Kwak is devine, and DeKoninck is swill.
Buyindie entry is here!
Its small bubbles and golden lightness are why gueuzes are called the champagne of beers.
Funny, I though Miller High Life was the "champagne of beers". It says so right on the can.
I hope you all realize that these are real people with real lives... I hope that few publicly criticize your job performance like most restaurant critics feel that they can do with such arrogance.
DC Restaurant Fan: What on god's green earth are you talking about?
This review was overwhelmingly POSITIVE. The exposure is GOOD for the real people at Beck, and their real livelihoods.
Have you not had your coffee this morning? Go back and read the review again.
And ya know what? Let's pretend you're not bonkers and that this was a negative review.
Businesses survive or perish based on, among other factors, the quality of their products. Most businesses are subject to review, be they restaurants, bicycle shops, wig shops, whatever, and when you open a restaurant you're opening yourself up to whatever the public is going to say about your products.
That's how it, you know, works. You do your best and hope for the best and, in theory: if your food's awful, people will find out and avoid your restaurant. If it's great, you'll be swimming in cash.
Lauriol Plaza is an exception to this rule. I don't have a clue why they're still in business.
This place was VERY disappointing! Service was awful... I have never been treated so rudely as I was at Beck, and I will NEVER return! It is a real shame, too, because the food was pretty good, but not good enough to make up for the service -- especially after being physically shoved from the premises by an assistant manager when asking questions about their policies, which they DO NOT POST... The general manager refused to speak with me, which I also find unacceptable after dropping $400. Don't waste your time, there are too many other great places with excellent service!
This place was VERY disappointing! Service was awful... I have never been treated so rudely as I was at Beck, and I will NEVER return! It is a real shame, too, because the food was pretty good, but not good enough to make up for the service -- especially after being physically shoved from the premises by an assistant manager when asking questions about their policies, which they DO NOT POST... The general manager refused to speak with me, which I also find unacceptable after dropping $400. Don't waste your time, there are too many other great places with excellent service!