This post from DCist contributor Matt Cordell

Although BLT Steak just moved into town ("BLT" is not bacon, lettuce, and tomato, but Bistro Laurent Tourondel as in New York City's BLT Steak, BLT Prime, BLT Fish, and BLT Burger), it has already masterfully affected one of D.C.'s core stereotypes: the clubby lobbyist haunt. Here, in a scene of dark wood and suede, pricey food comes heavy, dull, and fast, but without any serious missteps.

As soon as my date and I sat down, we were immediately greeted by a fair-sized jar of oily, rich paté. Granted, we did eat every morsel (although plain, it was paté), but the heavy taste of meat and oil did set the tone for the rest of the meal. This convoluted "amuse bouche" numbed, rather than sharpened, the taste buds. In truth it made little difference; what followed came like a stack of forgettable broad-stroke canvases.

The paté was almost immediately replaced by ham hock-sized gruyere popovers. They're well made, and LT knows it (he includes the recipe in an attached card). Cracking them open released a puff of steam and revealed the soft, moist interior, just begging to be slathered with butter and sprinkled with salt from the accompanying silver shaker. They're a nice touch, but, at this point, I'm wondering when I'm going to get to drive this train and whether I'd be able to taste anything after two such heavy courses. LT had me on the ether.

At this point, we almost regretted the fact that we had ordered appetizers. Even a modest salad was likely to leave me struggling to finish my entree. I was safe with my tuna tartare ($16), but, unfortunately, my date's salad was anything but modest, its bulk overflowed our dainty preconceptions. What was simply "Baby Spinach/ Bacon/Maytag Blue" ($12) on the menu expanded to crest the top of a head-sized bowl at the table; she barely made a dent. Despite my impending limit, I made a Herculean effort to finish off my tartare, a pure cube of packed rich red tuna set on a thin foundation of avocado and wasabi lapped by a puddle of soy and lime juice. Once again, the tuna was quality but the dish, as a whole, was heavy and unrefined (and actually also a little too cold, muting the flavor of the tuna).

The steaks—delivered on cast-iron platters—were not disappointing (although I think Ray has LT beat). My hanger steak ($24), though a little scrawny, was prepared to perfection and imbued with the richness I was expecting. My date's filet mignon ($41) was full of class. The sauces, however, were a bit of a distraction. My chimichurri was bland. My date's rough Bearnaise was lost on her rich filet. Is crowning quality meat with a healthy pat of herb butter really necessary?

All in all, BLT Steak reaches the goal it seems to be pursuing: to be a top spot to take your clients and your expense account (steak from the $24 hanger to the $130 5-oz. Kobe, appetizers $9-$23, and fish entrees $28-$75). Not pushing the envelope in preparation means no errors here, though. The massive dose of milk and animal fat—anesthesia for the tongue—ensures that even those that do slip through won't be noticed. But, you and your associates, undoubtedly, will be comfortable and sated. On the other hand, if you're looking for a date spot, you're likely to find the atmosphere too impersonal. If you're looking for a culinary experience, both your palate and your wallet will be disappointed.

BLT Steak
1625 Eye St, NW
202.689.8999
Hours: M-F 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. M-Th 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. F-Sat 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Closed Sun.
Metro: Farragut West, Farragut North, or McPherson Square