First Impressions: Cafe du Parc
The park in downtown Washington, D.C. named for John "Black Jack" Pershing tends not to do justice to the man who achieved the highest rank of any person ever to serve in the United States military. In 1919, in recognition of his remarkable career and service in the Great War, Congress elected to promote General Pershing to the rank of General of the Armies—a position created especially for him. These days his namesake park, located where 14th Street NW, meets Pennsylvania Avenue, attracts more than a smattering of visitors only during the winter months, when an ice rink is dropped in the middle of it.
A new restaurant in the Willard Hotel very well may change the fortunes of General Pershing's park. Friday was press night at Café du Parc, (read this as full disclosure, please) and the self-described "new classic French bistro" has spared no expense in impressing the gathered gastronomes. The crowd arrived to a champagne welcome and legato accordion music played by Carmelo Pino, who, with a doctoral degree in music, has accompanied the likes of Luciano Pavarotti and Placido Domingo. Mr. Pino follows us into the dining room; his efforts throughout the evening prove once and for all that food tastes better when buttressed by live accordion music. "This is Café du Parc," general manager Herve Houdre announced in his lilting French accent, "because of Pershing Park." Throughout the evening, the staff of Café du Parc make repeated references to Pershing Park, and one imagines that from across the river in Arlington, General Pershing is smiling down at the three Michelin-starred chef from France who seems determined to turn his Park into a culinary destination.
Chef Antoine Westermman must be the world's most unassuming three star chef in the history of Michelin's little red book. Slightly built with wire-rim spectacles and Kevin Spacey's haircut, Westermman lived up to his humble reputation when he nervously addressed the diners, leaning up against the wall in his chef whites, holding a wireless microphone and bouncing on the balls of his feet: "I like bistros," he said in halting English, explaining his concept for Café du Parc. "The most important thing is the food, and then the ambiance."
Of course one cannot provide an objective review of a restaurant having only attended its press night, but one dish demands mention: for an amuse gueules, Westermman presents a veal, pork, and duck foie gras paté cooked with port wine and Armagnac, then wrapped in pastry with a natural geleé; he calls this "paté en croute d'Antoine Westermman," and it is one of his signature dishes. The paté is every bit as sinfully rich and delightful as it reads.
After the first course, international cabaret singer and D.C. native Robin Phillips regaled us with the first of the few songs she would sing throughout the evening. "Under Paris skies or in Café du Parc," she purred in a voice equal parts silt and smoke, "anything is possible—even falling in love again." Tonight, subtlety is neither the bistro's aim nor its forte. The diners applauded enthusiastically for Ms. Phillips' accordion-accompanied song, sung in French, about
waiting for her lover.
Before the evening closed, general manager Houdre introduced the entire wait staff and all the chefs. He smartly played to the chip on D.C.'s gastronomic shoulder when he proclaimed that, when it comes to dining, "Washington is America's best kept secret." Murmurs of agreement washed across the dining room. One might even say that, when it comes to dining, Washington has more than a bit in common with Pershing Park.
Prices for meals at Café du Parc will run about $10 to $22 for breakfast; $16 to $20 for lunch, and $17 to $24 for dinner.
Café du Parc
1401 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
202.942.7000
Metro: Federal Triangle; Metro Center