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In her book, Cooking for Mr. Latte, Amanda Hesser describes meeting Julia Child in France and having to take her out for a meal. However, all the restaurants that Ms. Hesser had wanted to take Julia to were not open, and they ended up at a small cafe. With smirking teenagers looking on, Julia Child ordered fried eggs with mayonnaise, and proceeded to ensure that she consumed every bit of the mayonnaise with her eggs and bread.
A lovely little anecdote, yes, but that grand dame of cooking, Julia, understood something really important: food is sometimes merely a vehicle for getting tasty condiments into one's mouth. Too frequently condiments are abused and serve as cover for sub par food – moistening dry meat or masking odd flavors. But then there are the ones with flavors that dance across the tongue, often hitting a spectrum of different sensations and different points in the mouth - an initial burn, a tongue-curling sourness, a savory and fatty mouthfeel, a sweet aftertaste. They enhance already amazing food and some are being worthy of dragging an extra piece of bread through or, in less polite company, a finger to get every last bit of goodness.
I've had many a pair of trousers that were a casualty of the mango sauce from Naan & Beyond, and each spill was well worth the dry cleaning bill. Possibly the best lunch steals in town are their chicken ($1.50) and veggie ($1.00) samosas. Roughly the size of a baseball, the chicken samosa is chock full of tender chunks of white meat. But these chicken samosas only reach their full potential with the free little tub of mango sauce, which tastes like a more refined, slightly spicy version of sweet and sour sauce. If you want a little extra kick, mix in some of the deep red hot sauce.
The best way to get this perfect flavor combination of meat and sweet is to rip off a thick corner of samosa wrapper and dip it into the mango sauce. This leaves you with a nice hole through which you can pour an appropriate amount of mango sauce. Be careful as you bite into this overstuffed monster or you might end up with little chunks of sauce-coated chicken tumbling out. The same rules apply for the veggie samosas, which are filled with curried potatoes and peas. This samosa is best paired with the bright green mint sauce, which provides a cool, creamy contrast against the strong curry flavors.
Another excellent spot for condiments is Max's Kosher Cafe in Wheaton. Much like Amsterdam Falafelshop, it has a wide variety of condiments for their falafel as well as shawarma. Toppings range from a cucumber and tomato salad, coleslaw-like cabbage, pickled beets, pickled cauliflower, hot sauce and tahini amongst a number of other flavorful odds and ends.
Unlike the free-for-all at Amsterdam, your sandwich maker will walk you down the line carefully layering your meat or falafel in between the pickles and sauces. Be careful, as overzealous garnishing can lead to a big soggy, salty mess. Not to mention you'll have more clothes coated in sauce. Ideally, try to layer fresh and preserved tidbits evenly, so you get a variety of different bites - some cool and clean and others sharp and pungent.
Now you might ask why go all the way to Wheaton, when Amsterdam Falafel is closer? In addition to great condiments, the falafel at Max's is superlative, just ask Don Rockwell, who describes the falafels as, “only lightly battered, and beautifully soft and flavorful on the inside...“
So whether it's breaking the laws of physics by squirting a ketchup packet on the front of your white shirt to perhaps sitting on your couch with a tub of mayonnaise, follow Julia's lead. Don't neglect that little bit of tastiness on the side.
Naan & Beyond
1701 L Street NW
202.466.6404
Metro: Farragut North
Max’s Kosher Café
2319 W. University Blvd.
Wheaton, MD
301.949.6297
Metro: Wheaton
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Don't stop with the samosas. Naan and Beyond serves up a huge portion of biryani for next to nothing. The aforementioned mango sauce also does a nice job of complimenting the lamb version of this entree, balancing the spice and adding a pleasantly sweet tone to the dish.
Remember to use caution when bringing leftovers back to the office, though, as anything from this restaurant has a tendency to stink up the area around your cubicle.
I never considered this place for lunch, as 17th and L is a bit to far to walk from my office at 13th and H.
That is...until I found the SECRET Naan and Beyond! Deep within the bowels of the subterranian "Eat! at National Place" food court at 13th and Pennsylvania lies a cafeteria style Naan and Beyond location thats serves the same great food, and is never too crowded. Needless to say, I eat there 2-3 times a week now.
yeah that food court is great - they also have a cheap pizza place that serves beer in 32 oz paper cups.
I love the Lamb Tikka Sandwich wrapped in Naan from Naan and Beyond, too. Sooo yummy!!!
Oooh, I will have to try Naan and Beyond at lunch today. I could always use some good paneer and curry slathered in tamarind sauce. Mmmm!
And the other secret location, at Dupont Circle...2130 P. St.
Oh my. I went by the L St. Naan and Beyond to try the veggie biryani and a veggie samosa. MEH. What a disappointment! The biryani had little taste and even less vegetables (it was more like fried rice from a chinese restaurant with some turmeric thrown in). At least add some cauliflower. And the samosa... how hard is it to fuck up a samosa? But they did it. Absoluteley NO flavoring whatsoever to the filling. BLAND. The mango sauce wasn't even a redeemer; it tasted and looked more like honey mustard. Oh well, I guess the slight dip in price comes at the expense of decent flavor. I'll give them another shot and get the paneer pizza next time, but I'm quite disappointed.
Chris L. - Thanks for the tip on the secret Naan and Beyond; but for folks who aren't familiar with the "Eat! at National Place" food court (I've been in DC for 10+ years and had never heard of it), the corner of 13th & F St NW would be a better reference point.
Julia Child also describe her perfect meal once as pot roast and a bottle of wine.
Or was it vodka? I honestly can't remember ...