It’s been three years now since the movie Sideways popped into our lives. To some this may be long forgotten, but to us in the wine world we are still feeling the effects of that one special phrase that Miles uttered (actually screamed) “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” And that was that. This one little phrase pushed Merlot to the bottom of the wine totem pole and the rest of the movie put Pinot Noir up on a pedestal. But why the discrimination against Merlot? Where have all the prized Pinots gone that Miles pined for? Where are we now is the question we’re asking today.

Let’s first address Miles’ Pinot Noir obsession. We are in full agreement that a well made Pinot Noir is a beautiful thing. Key words: well made. What Miles loved about Pinot Noir was that it is one of the most finicky grapes to grow and produce. It requires the right climate (cool and coastal is best), it’s thin-skinned, and needs a lot of nurturing, unlike Cabernet Sauvignon which he describes as a survivor that will grow almost anywhere. The damaging result of this is that it has become increasingly difficult to find these lush Pinots, and when you do, the price for it is absurd. What we do see is inexpensive, light, and fruity Pinots, which is not representative of what it should be at all. Wineries are not giving them the proper time or care because they are trying to keep up with demand. Cheap Pinots have become as fashionable as Ugg boots. We are over-saturated with them and every time we turn around they are there and show no sign of going away.

Now how about that Merlot? Again we agree that cheap Merlots are about as exciting as chewing gum, but for every crappy one there is another gorgeous one ready for our consumption. Most people latched onto that one phrase but must have tuned out the rest of the movie, because Miles did not think all Merlots were mediocre. In one part of the movie he and Maya discussed one of his most cherished possessions- a bottle of 1961 Cheval Blanc from Bordeaux. He was awaiting the just right moment to open it. What is so significant about this bottle you wonder? Well it is Merlot and Cabernet Franc (which he also took a stab at) based. Ah ha! Merlot is one of the primary grapes of the Bordeaux region and has been used in many exceptional wines for decades. Besides Bordeaux, California and Chile are producing some deliciously full-bodied Merlots that are rich in plum and dark fruit characteristics alongside nice silky textures.

As with any movie, it is easy to get mixed messages. This one is no different. The message that came out was basically “Pinot Noir=Good, Merlot=bad.” While in actuality, it was a movie about a severely depressed man and his not-quite-ready to settle down best friend with a background storyline of appreciating fine wine. Well here is our message: because we are wine geeks we can’t exactly bring sexy back, so we’re bringing Merlot back.

Photo by Kevin Labianco

Wines to Try:
Legado Munoz Merlot/Tempranillo from Castilla, Spain ($13) - If you’re not quite ready to jump right back into 100% Merlot, ease into it with this rich blend. It has great upfront fruit from the Merlot but finishes with a little peppery spice from the Tempranillo.

Apex II Merlot from Washington State ($16) - This wine really shows off the true characteristics of American Merlot. It is evenly balanced between dark cherry and hints of vanilla topped off with some smokiness and oak. Definitely a great price to quality ratio.

Château Lauriol Côtes de Francs 2003 Bordeaux ($15) - This Merlot-rich Bordeaux gives off rich plummy notes laced with vanilla and oak with a velvety finish. At this price it’s a steal. This is a great bottle to stump your label-loving wine snob friends!

Santa Ema Reserva Merlot ($14) - One sip of this will open your eyes to a totally different take on Merlot. It’s less on the fruity side and more heavy on chocolate and roasted coffee flavors. This is a fuller style Merlot and is a perfect match with chocolate cake!

Wine To Do:
Tickets are on sale now for the 32nd Annual Virginia Wine Festival. The festival will be held September 15th and 16th at Morven Park Equestrian Center in Leesburg. This is great way to support local wineries and food vendors while enjoying the outdoors and some good ol’ country music. If you purchase tickets online it is only $20. At the gate, tickets are $25.