Buyin' Oeno: Make Mine Merlot

It’s been three years now since the movie Sideways popped into our lives. To some this may be long forgotten, but to us in the wine world we are still feeling the effects of that one special phrase that Miles uttered (actually screamed) “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” And that was that. This one little phrase pushed Merlot to the bottom of the wine totem pole and the rest of the movie put Pinot Noir up on a pedestal. But why the discrimination against Merlot? Where have all the prized Pinots gone that Miles pined for? Where are we now is the question we’re asking today.

Let’s first address Miles’ Pinot Noir obsession. We are in full agreement that a well made Pinot Noir is a beautiful thing. Key words: well made. What Miles loved about Pinot Noir was that it is one of the most finicky grapes to grow and produce. It requires the right climate (cool and coastal is best), it’s thin-skinned, and needs a lot of nurturing, unlike Cabernet Sauvignon which he describes as a survivor that will grow almost anywhere. The damaging result of this is that it has become increasingly difficult to find these lush Pinots, and when you do, the price for it is absurd. What we do see is inexpensive, light, and fruity Pinots, which is not representative of what it should be at all. Wineries are not giving them the proper time or care because they are trying to keep up with demand. Cheap Pinots have become as fashionable as Ugg boots. We are over-saturated with them and every time we turn around they are there and show no sign of going away.

Now how about that Merlot? Again we agree that cheap Merlots are about as exciting as chewing gum, but for every crappy one there is another gorgeous one ready for our consumption. Most people latched onto that one phrase but must have tuned out the rest of the movie, because Miles did not think all Merlots were mediocre. In one part of the movie he and Maya discussed one of his most cherished possessions- a bottle of 1961 Cheval Blanc from Bordeaux. He was awaiting the just right moment to open it. What is so significant about this bottle you wonder? Well it is Merlot and Cabernet Franc (which he also took a stab at) based. Ah ha! Merlot is one of the primary grapes of the Bordeaux region and has been used in many exceptional wines for decades. Besides Bordeaux, California and Chile are producing some deliciously full-bodied Merlots that are rich in plum and dark fruit characteristics alongside nice silky textures.

As with any movie, it is easy to get mixed messages. This one is no different. The message that came out was basically “Pinot Noir=Good, Merlot=bad.” While in actuality, it was a movie about a severely depressed man and his not-quite-ready to settle down best friend with a background storyline of appreciating fine wine. Well here is our message: because we are wine geeks we can’t exactly bring sexy back, so we’re bringing Merlot back.

Photo by Kevin Labianco