Buyin' Oeno: Virginia is for (Wine) Lovers
Virginia’s love for wine is no secret. It dates back centuries with Thomas Jefferson’s personal endorsement of wine as a suitable beverage. However, when you mention “Virginia Wines” to anyone, you are met with one of two reactions: an overwhelming expression of excitement and testament to how fabulous they are or an exasperated eye roll that says it all. Whichever one you fall under is fine with us, but as avid wine drinkers we feel it’s our duty to give them a fair chance. Like any wine producing region, there are good wines, mediocre wines, and not so good wines. Since Virginia is still considered a young wine producing area, they are still experimenting with grapes and varieties, so many of the wines can be mediocre. Most Virginia wineries focus on what grape varieties will appeal to the masses and not what grape varieties grow best in their climate. This results in the majority (not all) of the wines lacking distinct structure and character. The best way to discover this on your own is to either take a day trip out to some of the wineries themselves or do a crash tasting at one of the many festivals that feature Virginia wines. Since one of the biggest wine festivals is coming up this weekend, we thought we should brush up on our VA Wine knowledge.
Virginia has six designated AVAs (American Viticulture Area). Just for the record, an AVA is a defined region approved by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms as a distinct grape-growing region. If the AVA is listed on a wine label, 85% of the grapes must come from that AVA (except Washington and Oregon, where 100% of the grapes must be AVA-native). The six AVAs in the Old Dominion are Monticello, Shenandoah Valley, Eastern Shore, North Fork of Roanoke, Rocky Knob, and Northern Neck. In 1971 the Farm Wineries Act allowed a winery to sell its product at the winery and most wineries began opening to the public in 1975. In 1979, there were only 6 wineries in Virginia; currently there are over 100 recognized wineries in the state, so there is no doubt that this industry is rapidly growing.
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What can you expect out of local wines? You’ll find everything across the board from Pinot Grigio to Cabernet Sauvignon. But what actually works best in our climate? Throughout our research and conversations with local wine makers, it’s clear that Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and Sauvignon Blanc are best suited here. Other varietals that are commonly found and do well are Viognier, Petite Manseng and a few American varieties and hybrids such as Norton, Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc. Of course you find many other types like Riesling, Pinot Noir and Sangiovese, but while they might taste okay, they are not representative of what they should be. Riesling needs a cooler climate that will help bring out the acidity to balance the natural sweetness. Our hot, humid climate leaves us with just the sweetness, which makes the wine unbalanced. This is a common problem in many of the Virginia wines, so it’s best to look for the above mentioned varieties. Another problem is the higher price tags on a lot of these products. Because many of the wineries are small and are only able to produce limited quantities, higher prices may be necessary in order to maintain their business. Unfortunately, if you look at a price to quality ratio a lot of times they do not match up. Virginia is certainly climbing its way up, but there is still much room for improvement.
We think that they'll get there, though. There is a huge need for wineries to focus more on site-specifics and grape-specifics and produce what is most suitable for their conditions. Also, much of the wine does not make it out of the Virginia/D.C./Maryland area, so it is not able to gain any recognition nation-wide. We have full confidence that one day Virginia will be competing with other wines worldwide, but for now we’re happy accepting them for what they are. Plus, who can deny supporting local agriculture?
For more information about Virginia Wine check out www.virginiawines.org
Wines to Try:
Corcoran (formerly Waterford) Viognier from Waterford, VA ($17) - This is Virginia Viognier at its finest. It’s full body and lush stone-fruit aromas make it a perfect match for everything from ceviche to roasted chicken.
Kluge Albemarle Rosé from Charlottesville, VA ($16) - Done in a Bordeaux style this is a fuller rosé with herbal undertones and a dry finish. Sip this now while the weather is still hot!
Linden Vineyards Avenius Red from Linden, VA ($35) - This is a blend of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is full of black cherry, chocolate and cedar notes, but maintains soft tannins. Enjoy this with full-flavored grilled meats.
Wine To Do:
Don’t forget to check out the 32nd Annual Virginia Wine Festival in Leesburg this Saturday and Sunday from 11:00am-6:00pm. Check out www.virginiawinefestival.org for ticket and shuttle information.