The Pasta's the Thing at Locanda

Capitol Hill is finally moving up in the District’s hierarchy of Places to Eat, and Locanda is helping the neighborhood make that move with its adventures in noodles. Not since the long-gone days of Roberto Donna’s Il Radicchio has Pennsylvania Avenue seen pasta this perfectly cooked.

Filled with ricotta and asparagus, braised leeks and cheeses or whatever else chef Brian Barszcz (an Oblelisk and Tallula alum) wants to stuff them with, count me in for the ravioli of the day. Though it’s a tough choice over a fluffy fettuccini that provides a lovely balance to a wild boar ragu. Mac-and-cheese is elevated with tender noodles and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs and crispy pancetta, served in a wee cast iron skillet.

There is a list of the usual suspects that serves as “Secondi” – entrees of hangar steak with cippollini onions, chicken, pork chops, tuna with white bean salad, and the oh-so-trendy whole grilled branzino – and the ones I have had are tasty, don’t get me wrong. But the pasta is what will get you there and keep you coming back.

A first attempt at ordering at Locanda was nearly thwarted by a lack of ingredients. My friend’s choice – a gnocchi with pesto – was not available because the chef was dissatisfied with the quality of potatoes in the last shipment. No red snapper, either, though I had my heart set on some fish swimming in saffron broth, with dandelions and cockles. Both have since made a hasty departure from the menu.

Speaking of hasty departures, I really can’t promise you one. Even several months after opening day, service runs hot and cold. One weeknight visit featured extremely uneven service, leaving us rushed at the beginning of the meal when the joint was pretty empty and feeling forgotten by the end after it had filled up considerably. Another (weekend) visit to a packed house was perfectly paced. But even on nights of neglect, staff was helpful and well-informed about the menu – this is key with a menu chock full of Italian culinary terms most diners may or may not know offhand.