October 19, 2007
The Weekly Feed: Blue-Haired Ladies Edition
Sietsema responds, sorta
Last week, we asked Tom for a clarification of the star-rating system. During his Dining Guide chat, he linked to his ratings code, which he posted this past Monday.
One of the chatters had the same questions we had, "Have you ever considered a different system for your ratings? So often you will write a review where you rave about the food but mention something else (service, appearance) that you didn't like, and then the rating will be two and a half stars... What about separate food and service/ambiance ratings?"
Tom responded, "What's wrong with two-and-a-half stars? In my book, that's "good to excellent."... The quality of the food accounts for about 50 percent of any restaurant rating; service and ambiance account for about 25 percent each."
Fifty percent of the rating is essentially how much the restaurant kisses your ass and makes you feel fashionable or classy. So basically, The Washington Post food section ratings are pretty useless for anyone but rich blue-haired ladies, lobbyists and fashion hunters. Shouldn't the food section be a little more concerned about... I don't know... food?
Sietsema neglects the fact that there is still a significant portion of people in this town who don't live it up on expense account meals, want to spend more judiciously, and who are more keen on the quality of food than scenery. The City Paper's Tim Carman points out Sietsema's detachment from the cheap eats crowd in this town, recounting his apparent inability to find more than one low-cost, high-quality food option in our fair city.
I would hold up the superior rating system from the Dallas Morning News as an example of what Tom should strive for. DMN will reward remarkable ventures with more stars, "If a barbecue shack serves ribs that make your whole body tingle, but the service is gruff and the decor little more than a shack, it still might merit three stars purely for the joy of that 'cue." So Tom, give up on some of the elitism, and deign to eat like us little people.
Photo courtesy of Diva Eva
Small Bites
New Developments on P St.
Booming Logan Circle has another new restaurant. Veranda, a Mediterranean restaurant with Greek and Italian influences has opened at 1100 P St. NW. A quick glance at their menu brings up a delicious sounding dessert — white chocolate bread pudding with candied grapefruit, toasted almond topped with vanilla lavender ice cream. Hopefully it's as tasty as it sounds.
Despite the road construction issues on P St. west of Dupont Circle, Onje, a French-accented Caribbean restaurant and bar/lounge, will be opening up in the old 21P space. One tipster said they were planning to shoot for an opening in the next 30 days, although according to Zagat, they are shooting for a winter opening. [via Zagat]
Jose Andres Dominates the World
Zaytinya is celebrating its fifth anniversary in a big way. During the week of October 22-29, they will be serving up $5 mezze, cocktails and desserts. On the evening of October 22, they're hosting a cocktail party from 5-7pm with free mezze and other goodies.
Be sure to also catch the last of the Pinxtos Festival at Jaleo, ending this Sunday. I highly recommend the one with bacalao (salted cod) or the one topped with smoked salmon - both cool, refreshing and pleasantly salty.
We Cook Light?
Maybe we missed while we chowing down on sliders, pizza and frites, but Cooking Light Magazine chose Washington DC as its third best healthy eating city. Rankings were based on a variety of things like access to farmers markets (such as our lovely FreshFarm markets), James Beard nominees, ability to travel the city by foot, quality of health and more. For more details about why our fair city did so well, they will be publishing more about it in the October issue of the magazine.
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hear hear!
It's Jose Andres, not Andrew. And his grasshopper taco at Oyamel are also worth jumping for. With a creamy, sweet crunch similar to Japanese fried shrimp heads but with less shell to get stuck in your teeth...they're sauteed in tangy, hot tequila/shallot/garlic/chili seasonings and served under a dollop of cool and smooth guac (7th & D NW).
I prefer the Zagat ratings which do provide separate categories for food and service though they too tend to be more focused on pricey restaurants. I'm still mad at Sietsema for dissing one of my fav (low-priced!) French restaurants which promptly went out of business.
Hmm, seems to me there've been a fair number of food articles in DCist that aren't exactly targeted to "the little people", especially the ones complaining about people who "aren't used to fine dining".
Having separate ratings would be nice, but most people do consider ambiance and especially service to be significant characteristics.
Um, clearly you've read his chat at least once. He makes it pretty clear, because he gets the question at least once a week, that he is NOT on an expense account. Tom pays for his meals just like everyone else--except more because he eats out way more than you.
shesgone: Actually, perhaps you should read more carefully. From the chat on April 25, 2007, Tom states, "The Post pays for all the meals I eat in conjunction with my Magazine reviews and for a part of what I consume for my Postcards in the Travel section."
So actually no, he does not personally pay for all his meals. So maybe that's not technically an expense account, but that money is not coming out of his own pocket.
DC is home to countless mediocre restaurants in the midrange to lower cost categories. It's not exactly shocking that restaurant reviewers are well aware of this. Unlike NYC or SF, a trip to a cheaper place in DC is not likely to result in anything worth reviewing.
I agree with Hillman...DC has good takeout like Chipotle and High Noon, and then nothing really good that's not a chain til your entree price tops $15. Does anyone want to change that? I'm a foodie and a cook (no culinary school)...but I believe that if people work for a living they should be able to afford high-quality, healthy food with natural ingredients if they choose. Some creativity and cultural fusion would be nice, too. Anyone who has experience managing a restaurant, or angel investors, feel free to contact me to talk more. I'm serious, too...does anyone want to start a culinary revolution for the masses?
I usually like Lu's pieces, even if I disagree, but this one?
How do you get from Sietsema saying he rates 25% for service and the same for ambiance to "Fifty percent of the rating is essentially how much the restaurant kisses your ass and makes you feel fashionable or classy."
Really? We're on this again? Show me, don't tell me. I just can't recall Sietsema reveling in ass-kissing behavior or um, displaying his desire for it. Or um, complaining that he didn't get it.
This really surprises me as someone who has read Sietsema (and Kliman, Zibart, Reichl, now Rockwell and others) for many years. I'm pretty sure there is a lot to be said in his columns over the years for attentive and kind service, but really not much for ass kissing or fashion making. Again, show it. I think we're all up for a healthy and well-considered critique here.
This just doesn't jive. And as much as it would be nice to see more lower-end reviews across the board (and we'll get to that), welcome to Washington, DC where the highest rents in the metro area are being compounded by astronomical increases in commercial property taxes (on top of stadium and BID taxes for many) and are going to push a lot of mom and pop and lower end establishments out. Some are already gone.
But it seems that the you may not read Sietsema's reviews and discussions from week to week. Where is this elitism you casually throw out there? Are you missing the frequent recommendations of cheaper places that I have found through reading Sietsema?
I would also a look at your own blog (which I read and enjoy). Your top 5 has one truly "affordable" place, another where you could get a cheap lunch, and you really seem to have enjoyed the service at The French Laundry ($240!) and Alinea. Two places this diner certainly can't afford but I am so glad you went (really). I am not sure I could get into TFL because my friend's sister does not work there.
Your discussion of the difference in service at these two high end restaurants is very interesting and would help me choose between the two should I become available to afford them. It's clear that service matters to you as it does to me. I certainly don't think that means I need my ass kissed. I don't think you mean that either. And neither does Sietsema.
So why go there?
Last, I think you missed what Carman, in the City Paper piece you link to, was saying.
He made an equally bizarre leap, though I think he was trying to be funny, when he said the Sietsema piece he was critiquing was "A brave and moving declaration from the author that he couldn’t find three memorable, low-cost options in the town he covers."
Sietsema never said that. It's an illogical leap made to sound contrary or cheeky. That's 100% Carman (also someone I read and enjoy).
But again, it comes off as a remark from someone who simply doesn't read Sietsema regularly. And you've repeated it as if Sietsema actually said it.
Why?
My culinary adventures have been aided over the year's by Sietsema's recommendations and raves for many cheaper places (many under $10) like City Lights of China, Amma's Vegetarian, Breadline, Deli City (definitely not the French Laundry), and Cubano's. More recent praise that I can remember for for Market Lunch (this week!), Minh's, Saigon Cafe, Nirvana (mentioned quite often), Huong Viet, Ruan Thai. Kotobuki? Surely you missed the raves for Taqueria Distrito Federal? For some of the Korean noodle joints? Pho places? Ethiopian on U St.? Hollywood East Cafe? It's all right there in the columns and chats. Years of it.
If you are going to take a swipe at a fellow food writer, or even offer a critique, back it up with good info and thorough research.
As is, I think we all should expect more.
Liu not Lu
DC has good takeout like Chipotle and High Noon, and then nothing really good that's not a chain til your entree price tops $15.
The DC Chowhound.com board is full of non-chains joints where you can get an excellent meal for under $15. And most of the posters there aren't food snobbie douches, unlike certain other food boards. Sure, the servers in these joints might not speak the Queen's English and the crapper might need a good swabbing, but food speaks for itself.
You have the added advantage of never having to run into Sietsema.
monkeyerotica, what are some of your faves for mid-priced, healthyish food?
indicognition - I highly recommend Suburban Tasteland which, contrary to the title, hits quite a few urban spots. Distinctly low-key and low-end review. You should be able to cobble together a healthyish meal, although your best bet is to probably get something obscene and just eat half and save the rest for later.
And I loves me some Chipotle, but folks need to hold the wrap/sour cream/rice and go for the bowl option with double beans if you want to keep that joint under 1,300 calories. But hey, it's not my job to keep you from killing yourself.
The Post's stars for restaurants are meaningless, but I generally find the reviews to be good and honest.
When looking for a new place to eat in a certain neighborhood, the first place I go is the Post. After that, Chowhound. Does anyone have any other recommendations for restaurant guides/website that are easy to use?
arighteouskoz, I like to check the City's Best lists on AOL Cityguide/Digitalcity http://cityguide.aol.com/washington/bestrestaurants for quick suggestions. They also have nightlife in the best-of. Zagat is good too, but it's a paid subscription. I started compiling an Excel spreadsheet of some of my favorite restaurants, and others that sound good based on the reviews. It's not comprehensive at all, but I'll try to figure out a way to get it online and post a link later. In the meantime, if anyone's interested in a copy by e-mail, let me know at evanlcooper (at) gmail (dot) com.
monkeyerotica, thanks for the link...I'll check Suburban Tasteland out. As far as Chipotle, I go for a bol, lettuce on the bottom, no rice, a little black beans, lots of fajitas (what they call green peppers and onions), double chicken, mild and corn salsas, and sometimes a small scoop of guac. That's about 400-700 calories depending on whether you go for the guac, and how generous they are...but it's nearly all protein and veg, so it's far from fattening. But sometimes a carnitas splurge is in order.
oh, and Washingtonian's Dirt Cheap Eats (http://www.washingtonian.com/packages/dirtcheapeats2007/index.html) and Cheap Eats (http://www.washingtonian.com/packages/cheapeats2007/index.html) are pretty worthwhile. They also have a decent but somewhat snobbish 100 Very Best (http://www.washingtonian.com/packages/verybest2007/index.html).