Written by DCist Contributor Oscar Bunoan

Despite what you’ve read, Vincent Van Gogh was not insane. I mean, what’s the use of an earlobe to a painter anyway? An artist under mental distress, after all, would have immediately deemed his moneymakers a more suitable gift for an unsuspecting prostitute. Why make reference to the 19th century post impressionist? Because, whether James and Miranda Chen—owners of the Asian influenced Sunflower Vegetarian—realize it or not, he serves as the ultimate muse for their quaint and very popular restaurant.

Tucked away between Routes 7 and 50 in Falls Church, the second chapter of this local Virginia favorite looks more like a modest bungalow at the mercy of the big box stores that line Seven Corners than an unassuming vegetarian powerhouse whose success began in a bustling Vienna neighborhood just over a decade ago. Once inside, an homage to the very flower that made Van Gogh a household name is readily apparent in large wall mounted murals, a grand ceiling centerpiece, and various trinkets dotting every empty platform. A feeling of serenity envelops you in the dimly lit atmosphere and the light massage of meditative music. Cheerful staff make certain that one's expectations are satisfied and your experience memorable without disturbing any new-found state of tranquility.

However, if you still have underlying doubts as to whether an all-vegan meal will sufficiently quench your appetite…or your need for meat, keep any of the many restaurants in Eden Center (across the way) in your pocket; but I'm here to tell you that you won't need any contingency plan. A quick glance at the large menu (large sections of appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches, noodle dishes, rice dishes, entrees, and specials) ensures that there will be something for everyone—even the most die-hard meat eaters.

The soup is an excellent way to kick off these nights of true autumnal weather. Start with the Wakame soup (Japanese seaweed) or Thom Yum (Thai lemongrass) soup. The Wakame is particularly good, as the seaweed gives the vegetable stock in which it rests a mild but pleasing sea-like character. The Thom Yum with its lemongrass and chili, not only warms your soul, but the rest of your insides as well; the impressive feat here is its ability to showcase an aggressive spiciness without sacrificing any flavor.

Appetizers are subject to far more mixed reviews, however. The Teriyaki Mock Sesame Eel doesn't fare as well as its menu-mates. It's a decent attempt at recreating the Japanese delicacy, but falls short in many ways: the texture is extremely mushy and the faux meat looks more like gourmet cat food than edible seafood. Although sesame seeds are plentiful and the taste has some semblance of eel, I could barely make out any hint of teriyaki. On the other hand, give Sunflower’s Fried “Chicken” a little extra time, like many restaurant regulars are likely to tell you. After just one bite it's easy to see how the bandwagon became so large. It’s difficult to ascertain the exact reason why, but the old adage can also apply to soy protein: It tastes like chicken. A ketchup and tabasco based sauce provides a delightful accompaniment to the fried delights.

Don't fall victim, like my dining companion and I did, to assuming you'll need more food and over-ordering just because it's vegan. Our entrees came fifteen minutes after our appetizers arrived, and we were only halfway through the starters. We were forced to brush them aside to make room for the mains, all of which were beautifully plated on sunflower inspired dishes. The "Sunflower Satisfaction" was pleasant, consisting of various vegetables, chickpeas, monkey mushrooms and more soy protein in a mildly spicy red chili and sweet orange sauce. Oddly enough, the soy tasted more like pork this time around. Weird. Good, but weird. Overcoming the eerie soy was the monkey mushrooms, which have a delightfully playful mouth feel.

Another dish, "Eggplant Lover" could do without the sun-dried tomatoes, which have no place in the dish. However, the remaining ingredients of pine nuts, mushrooms, and mixed vegetables all go perfectly well with what resembles more of a soup than a coating of sweet and sour sauce. The light, airy batter that surrounds the eggplant couldn’t be a better complement for the soft, melt-in-your-mouth goodness within.

Finishing the meal on a strong note, Sunflower's desserts do not disappoint. Organic almond and blueberry jelly pie is a pleasantly chilled variation on the fresh-from-the-oven original but the avocado and lemon pie—an interesting combination—is incentive enough for a return visit. Add to that the prices; the entrees at Sunflower top out at $12.50

With its gigantic menu and skilled preparation, Sunflower does a brilliant job of convincing the carnivorous among us that there are sufficient alternatives to pig, cow, and chicken. All hail the coming soy revolution.

Sunflower Vegetarian Restaurant
6304 Leesburg Pike
Falls Church, Va.
703.237.3888

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