Buyin' Oeno: Oddball Regions

2007_1024_oeno%282%29.jpgNowadays, it seems like every place under the sun is producing wine. Indeed, it's probably because they are. Whenever someone says that they have a bottle from North Carolina or Mexico or China, there is no second guessing them anymore.

Whether or not these odd regional wines are actually drinkable is another story. We've made it our mission to always give a bottle try- no matter where's it from- because you never know when or where you’ll find that unexpected gem of a pour. It doesn’t happen often, but what does happen is that you can come across some very pleasant and inexpensive bottles. This week we’re discussing a few of the lesser known regions that are really coming along these days by producing wines that are able to compete in the international market.

Eastern Europe has been producing wine for centuries, but unfortunately because of its turbulent past, its wine industry has gone through several expansions and contractions. Neglect of vineyards and wine making facilities lead to very inconsistent quality. Also, most of the production of these regions were more focused on bulk producing quantities of wine, rather than quality. Fortunately, wine laws are being updated as well as wineries and their vineyards. The main producing countries of Eastern Europe that are making the most progress are Hungary, Romania, and Moldova.

Photo by parikha49

Hungary
Hungary is the 9th largest wine producing region. Two-thirds of their production is white wine, mostly made from Olaszrizling (Welsh Riesling). One of their more internationally acclaimed wines is the sweet Tokaj, which is made primarily from the Furmint grape and is praised for its apricot characteristics. For reds, they utilize more common varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot although they do have some luck with Zweigelt and their native Kékfrankos (which produces fuller reds).

Romania
Romania is the 8th largest wine producing region. The bulk of their wines are consumed within their country and therefore are not available for export (which is not necessarily a bad thing). There is a desire for them to make more quality wine to export, so they have enlisted the help of industry people from Europe and Australia. Currently they do mostly lighter dry reds and whites, but also a few sweet dessert wines.

Moldova
Moldova did not become an independent republic until 1991, which makes them the new kid on the block in terms of wine production. They show great promise because most of their vineyards are planted in temperate zones which only receive moderate rainfall. Growers there have grafted popular international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc. A formal system of wine laws is being developed, which will ensure quality regulations in the future.

Another area that is gaining recognition are the countries in the Eastern Mediterranean. We are now seeing wines from Turkey, Greece, Lebanon and Israel. Like the others, most of their production is consumed within their borders. Israel is probably the youngest of all the regions, with their wine industry dating back a mere century. Their initial plan was to make Kosher wine for religious observance. Most of Israel's original product resembled much of the Kosher wine that was consumed here in the states about 30 years ago -- sickly sweet and one dimensional. Their new focus is on dry wines of international style.

Many of these lesser known wine producing regions have come light years from where they were, but still have much room for improvement. A lot of them have adapted the “New World” style of producing and bottling wine to help them in the international market, such as listing the varietal on the label, as opposed to the “Old World” style, of only listing the region. It is certainly exciting to see new competition in the market, and we will continue to do our part by drinking it up. We’re interested in hearing what your favorite Oddball wine region is, so please share with us in the comments.

Wines to Try:
Graystone Pinot Gris from Cahul, Moldova $12
This wine’s floral and honey notes harmoniously balance its crisp refreshing acidity. Its style falls right in the middle of Italian Pinot Grigio and Alsace Pinot Gris.

Craftsman Falconer’s Cuvee from Aszar-Neszmely, Hungary $13
This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Kékfrankos has firm structure, but moderate tannins with dark fruit and smoky overtones.

Golan Heights Cabernet Sauvignon from Upper Galil, Israel $15
Not your typical Cabernet, Golan Height’s is a smoother, more earthy, mineral driven wine that resembles more of a Bordeaux style than a New World Cali Cab.

Legacy Golden Valley Tamaioasa from Pietroasa, Romania $11
Tamaioasa is the grape here and only about 110 acres of it are planted world-wide. This wine is done in the late-harvest style with a touch of botrytis, which results in a lighter-styled dessert wine that is laced with honey and apricot richness.

Wine To Do:
Building Your Perfect Cellar- Wouldn’t it be great to have your own wine cellar? Or at least know how and why one would? Perhaps you just want to taste some great cellar staples for a little mid-week relief! Whatever the reason you’ll definitely want to check out the collaboration dinner of Best Cellars and Lia’s restaurant in Chevy Chase. This event will be held on Wednesday, November 7 at 7:30 p.m. It is a four-course meal paired with eight wines and an interactive class with a certified sommelier. The cost is $70/pp tax (with tip included). Tickets are limited and can be purchased either by calling Best Cellars at 703-741-0404 or online here.

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Comments (6) [rss]

Having served in the Peace Corps in Romania for 2 years, I got more than my fair share of headaches from Romanian wines (word to the wise: stay away from anything from Murfatlar). You can't find a lot of Romanian wines on our shelves here in the US, but around this time of year Vampire wine is typically featured as a novelty item in many wine shops. It comes from a region called Dealul Mare and ain't bad for the $10/bottle price range.

Speaking of Hungarian wines, where can I find them in the District? I love me some tokaj, but I really would like to find some Bull's Blood/Egri Bikaver. Any clue on where I can find that?

-Thanks

I'm thinking of making a Northern VA winery run to see the foliage and celebrate my birthday this weekend. Can you recommend a good route?

Hi Southwest,
The wineries I can recommend that aren't too far out off rt 66 are Pearmund, Linden and Crysalis. Have fun.

Ben Page

Blittle,
According to www.wine-searcher.com you can get bulls blood at Chevy Chase Wine and spirits.

Ben Page

blittle - the only place I have seen Tokaj in DC was at Paul's of Chevy Chase in Friendship Heights, although it is overpriced. You'll get a much better price online. I ordered from http://www.internetwines.com/ a few years ago and had a good experience.

Southwest DC - I've heard many good opinions about Linden and really enjoyed Rappahannock Cellars.

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