From DCist Contributor Oscar Bunoan

It's often said that bad luck comes in threes. In Vietnam, for example, a photo of three people represents bad luck. However, Vietnam is a restless, 22-hour flight away and Greg Cahill (owner of the successful Whitlow’s on Wilson) and Jonathan Williams (Whitlow’s general manager) are not superstitious men who rest their beliefs in ancient folklore. No self-respecting restaurateur, especially these two locally respected entrepreneurs, would conceive their restaurant on the premise of misguided hope. Besides, the reasoning behind Restaurant 3’s name is neither as profound as its numerical history suggests nor is it rooted in a particular cultural belief system.

Instead, this establishment represents a third venture in dining for the Cahill/Williams duo, and with restoration plans by Arlington County to reshape Clarendon into an "Urban Village", Restaurant 3 just might prove to be the anchor for all subsequent development projects in the immediate area. It certainly fits the mold of urbanity to a tee. You need look no further than the bold, red “3” emblazoned above the entrance, the floor-to-ceiling windows, or the twenty-something flock of socialites congregated on the bar-side patio.

Restaurant 3's décor is a mix of old-world classy meets new-world chic. This pastiche of past and present is obviously inspired by Chef Brian Robinson’s three-course menu: new millennium touches on old, American favorites. Complimentary baked bread served with whipped butter and a creamy garlic dip gets things going, and is an ideal way to whet one’s appetite. The drinks list showcases a little bit of everything as well: signature cocktails, new world wines, and various microbrews from across the nation. Although the list is somewhat limited, the attention to American winemakers and hops masters is rather impressive. However, I must point out that if a restaurant goes to the trouble of announcing the use of locally sourced produce, it would be nice to know the particular growers responsible.

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, though, so we dove in and did just that. A few early trip-ups at Restaurant 3 are cause for some consternation, unfortunately. For instance, executing orders in a timely fashion and the ability to keep up with customer demand was proving difficult on the night we visited; waiting nearly an hour for entrees to arrive is unacceptable. They were also painfully short on their wine, evident when they ran out of our selection. Given the fairly small wine list to begin with, it’s surprising they don't have more of each bottle on hand. They also couldn't live up to their menu. There should be a friendly caveat on their menu informing customers that certain dishes – ahem, Japanese Mero – might be unavailable on any given night. However, these indiscretions shouldn’t deter you from a visit. After all, this is a new restaurant, opened October 3, and they have an eye open for improvement. Fortunately, the staff go to great lengths in their attempts to satisfy the customer, which proves to be an effective palliative.

If you're ordering a replacement for any out-of-stock dishes, one should be wary about ordering the rib-eye. The side of vegetable ragout is average at best, but still manages to outshine the dish’s feature by a long shot. It’s strange to think that a steak known for its tenderness could be so tough. It’s discouraging to order medium rare only to find the center cooked as ordered and the surrounding portions more on the side of medium well. Someone needs to keep an eye on the grill temperature; no one should have to work their way through overcooked meat to reach an island of what he ordered. This is a steak, after all, not a Tootsie Pop.

The cider-brined pork chop is a modern take on a comfort classic and after the rib-eye, a step in the right direction. The three-apple relish offers a suitable consistency and is a nice substitute for the traditional applesauce. The three potato mash keeps the theme of “all things three” alive and well, while providing yet another pleasant compliment to the chop. My only qualm with this dish is the need for salt; strange for a dish proclaiming to be brined.

There are real champions on this menu, however. The catfish proves itself worthy of three cheers. Served on a bed of Hoppin’ John, the dish is the dirty south’s answer to the Caribbean’s beans and rice, providing a handful of textures from crispy to delicate. The initial illusion of the lightly battered fish being saturated in heavy grease proves to be just that – an illusion. One bite quickly dispels those thoughts and opens the door to light, flaky morsels of pure enjoyment. The lemon cayenne aioli only adds to the already jam packed party of flavors. Venue: my mouth.

If the catfish is a wild night out on the Mardi Gras fevered streets of New Orleans, then the duck is a refined dinner party among turtleneck-clad spoken-word poets. The brown tones of the perfectly seasoned duck breast and the orange bed of sweet potato hash, evoke nostalgic feelings of autumns past. Strangely enough, I can already foresee future autumns recalling memories of this dish. Though as a lover of all things allium, I only wish there are more sautéed onions to complement the hash.

One word of caution: this is not a place to take a first date. Getting to know someone over the constant bar room chatter can prove extremely tedious. Instead, round up a group of friends and experience an enjoyable evening out at Restaurant 3. Just steer clear of the steak. Prices for entrees range from $14 - $27, sides are $6, and appetizers hover around $10.

Restaurant 3
2950 Clarendon Blvd.
Arlington, VA 22201
703.524.4440
Metro: Clarendon

View Larger Map