Chinatown, Wine-atown
Written by DCist Contributor Eric Denman
As the commercialization of Chinatown persists, the number of restaurants and bars continues to increase. For every existing grungy Chinese takeout place, there is a new sports bar, burger joint, or wine bar. Proof, which opened in July, is the newest entry in the Chinatown wine bar field, and it opened a mere block from the established José Andrés outpost Zaytinya (which has been open since 2002). Both places revolve around wine, and both offer a wide range of small plates, although Proof's menu has some entree-sized offerings to contrast Zaytinya's mezze-based menu.
The two places excel in completely different areas: Zaytinya's 15 interesting wine by-the-glass offerings (the wines are predominantly Greek) are all under $10, whereas Proof's larger by-the-glass selection is more focused on American and European offerings. Perhaps as a result of the overhead cost of their automated Enomatic pouring system, Proof's can be more expensive. There are a few glasses at Proof that are less than $10, but the majority of the list is in the $10 to $13 range. The real draw of the Proof wine list is the ability to get tasting-sized glasses of wine: 2 ounce tastings (generally $3 to $4), are available of all of the glass wines which allows you to try several different wines during your meal without breaking the bank and stumbling out of the restaurant.
Proof also has a bottle list with 1,200 different options, which prompts the suggestion: when in doubt, ask your sommelier. Both restaurants have made it a point to hire bar staff that know the wines, and in both cases, they are very good at guiding you to something that will pique your interest. Proof's sommelier, Sebastian Zutant, is particularly talented. Late of Komi and Rasika, Zutant navigates his wine list precisely and with great thought. Give him a few seconds to work through the variables of your meal, your price range, and any other requests, and he'll provide you with a shining example of what a properly paired wine can do for food.
The food at Zaytinya can be spotty, but if you order carefully, it can be a good meal. Lamb shank with eggplant puree is delicious and the Kibbeh Nayeh (raw ground beef with spices) is very good. However, grilled shrimp are drowned in sauce and braised rabbit falls flat. Most of the tapas are in the $6 to $9 range, and depending on what you get, you can have a reasonably inexpensive meal here. Proof, on the other hand, has an inventive menu that was stellar on the one occasion I was able to get a seat for dinner. The sweetbreads ($13) are delicious, and the charcuterie ($8 to $13 per serving or $28 for the full board) here is top-notch. Most of the small plates are in the $10 to $15 range, with entrées running $20 to $25; again, it's not as cheap as Zaytinya, but the caliber of food is certainly worth the extra expense.
Since I can't lay claim to being a wine expert (though I know what's good…), I must mention the beer selection: Zaytinya has an abysmal bottle list and no taps, but that's at least in part due to their devotion to beverages from Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, etc. They may have some rarely-seen bottles on the list (Mythos, Keo, and Almaza), but that doesn't make those beers good. Proof, on the other hand, has 4 well-chosen taps and a very respectable bottle list. Although the taps are in constant rotation, Weyerbacher Double Simcoe IPA was on tap when I visited, as well as Oskar Blues Old Chub and the Belgian La Chouffe (on a return visit, two Clipper City offerings were on tap). It is another affirmation of the well-rounded nature of the place: it may be "wine-centric", but Proof applies good taste to every aspect of the dining experience.
When you're in the mood for wine in this part of town, there is no shortage of options. If you are in the mood for Greek or looking for a more modest night out, Zaytinya may be in order. Proof is the newcomer on the block but is already asserting its dominance; it has settled into a rhythm despite having only been open for 5 months, and once the crowds subside (it's not always easy to grab a barstool, even on a quiet night early in the week) I can easily see it becoming part of my rotation.
Zaytinya
701 9th St., NW
(202) 638-0800
Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown
Proof
703 G St NW
(202) 737-7663
Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown