An Adventure in Burma
Since 1990, Burma’s rightful Prime Minister – and only hope for democracy – has been a political prisoner under a military dictatorship built on a foundation of violence and intimidation. Thus, struggle is nothing new for the Burmese people as civil unrest has become analogous to the country for nearly half a century. For this, one can’t help but hope for better fortune for the people of Burma, be it in their native land or right here in D.C., like the success of a small, unassuming restaurant simply called Burma. Whether owner John Tinpe realizes it or not, the decision to christen his 2nd floor establishment after the country’s unofficial title is a strong testimony to his people’s continuous fight for democracy (Burma was officially renamed Myanmar in 1989 but pro-democracy advocates refuse to acknowledge the change).
Located one block north of the Verizon Center’s 6th Street entrance, many of Burma’s new patrons are the result of Wizards and Capitals fans seeking a culinary change of pace before or after cheering their respective teams to victory.
Confusion hit almost immediately after making the two-flight ascent when the absence of a visible host – or any employee for that matter – placed the customer in a choose-your-own-adventure scenario. Wait for staff to appear, find an alternate place to eat, or venture down a long hallway leading to what looks to be another separate dining area are the only choices. In addition to myself, a few fellow befuddled newcomers on this night would choose the latter.
Once seated, it’s impossible not to notice the lack of ambiance. An odd combination of lemon yellow painted walls against sapphire-blue industrial carpeting is hardly inviting. Frameless posters of Burmese landmarks attempt, unsuccessfully, to add character to the restaurant’s interior. Additionally, neither light music nor mellow sounds of babbling brooks grace the confines of Burma. Conversations are relegated to dull whispers for fear of breaking the monotonous silence. This is what dinner with a sect of Benedictine monks must feel like.
The food didn't fare much better.
A popular starter of eggplant slices battered in rice powder and deep-fried (Golden Eggplant) stimulates the salivary glands on paper, but failed to deliver in actuality. Blades of grass grow thicker than the eggplant slivers in this dish. The accompanying tamarind based sauce was a winner and absolutely loaded with flavor, but it still was not enough to warrant a repeat order of deep-fried batter sans eggplant.
Another house favorite, Burmese Mango Pork cooked in various spices, was yet another disappointment. The pickled mango (marinated in oil, chili pepper, and garlic), which are intended to cut through the fattiness of the pork, became obsolete when the pork pieces contained zero fat. The prevalent “spice” also turned out to be soy sauce, and searching for any trace of mango was a fruitless endeavor.
The noodle dish I ordered (Kauswe Thoke) was much more successful. Not only were all the ingredients of ground shrimp, onion, cilantro, hot pepper, garlic, lemon juice (and noodles) present and accounted, but this dish actually tasted good. So good, in fact, I would return to Burma without hesitation just for it, despite the evening's earlier bitter pills.
Only I’d place my order to go.
Elevator access available; Average price per dish: $10. Lunch: Mon-Fri (11 a.m. – 3 p.m.), Dinner: Daily (6 – 10 p.m.)
Burma Restaurant
740 6th St. NW (2nd Floor)
Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown
202-638-1280