First Look: Cork
It's a very good time to be a wine drinker in D.C. With spring not too far away, wine bars have been popping up like daisies around town. Newcomers include Proof in Chinatown, Vinoteca at 11th/U, and Veritas in Dupont Circle. Just last night, another contender entered the fray: Cork officially opened its doors on 14th between R and S. The wine list is 40 strong by the glass, and around 130 by the bottle. Prices are generally in the $8-$11 range for glasses, although there are a few outliers at $6 and $14. Cork also offers flights of three wines for $9-$13 - my chenin blanc flight was an interesting tour through the grape's intricacies, with sugar and acidity levels varying between glasses. At the moment, the beer list has only five bottles, but it includes standouts such as the Smuttynose IPA and Floris Wit-Blanche. As for the food, I arrived as the kitchen was closing so I missed out on a chance to try the menu, but the presence of Chef Ron Tonaka, former sous chef of CityZen and Citronelle, makes me confident that the food will be an attraction here. The menu is small, but includes some typical wine bar fare such as charcuterie and duck confit, as well as more adventurous selections, each notated with wine recommendations.
Statistics and prices aside, there are a few things that differentiate Cork from the other new contenders in the genre. First, the wine list has a distinct focus: The list is exclusively old world (Spain, Italy, France) and provides a nice tour through the incredible variety that those countries offer. You will not find any Napa Cabs on the list, but that's the point. Because the list is concentrated on a specific subset of wines, a visit here has the potential to become a deeper learning experience. Second, with Tom Brown (formerly of Corduroy, among other places) as bar manager, you can expect to see some excellent cocktails coming across the bar. Cork has a fully stocked liquor selection, and there will almost certainly be some interesting bottles kicking around back there soon. And third, the ambiance has a much-appreciated personal touch. Instead of an Enomatic wine pouring system, the bartenders themselves pour wine from bottles. Where other wine bars aim for a sleek, modern image, Cork is more relaxed and comfortable. This is a wine bar definitely worth hanging out in, and I'll be back soon to see how it matures into the neighborhood spot I hope it will be.
Note that the service will be a bit slower as they get used to the menu and settle into a rhythm. Be patient. As with any new establishment, some things will inevitably change, so call or check the website before you make any decisions based on details I've cited above.
Cork
1720 14th Street, NW
202.265.CORK (202.265.2675)
Metro: U St (Green Line)
Tuesday-Wednesday: 5 p.m.-Midnight
Thursday-Sunday: 5 p.m.-1 a.m.
Closed Monday