El Pollo Rico… Suave
Peruvian chicken in the D.C. metro area is just about as touchy a subject as it gets. Religious ponderings and political debates can expect to take a back seat when it comes to defending rotisserie chicken loyalties. Everyone has their favorite, which is why the opinion herein is bound to receive adulation from some and harsh criticism from others. That being said, I am officially declaring my allegiance to El Pollo Rico.
Sure, Super Pollo offers a choice of sides, Chix’s menu is 50% organic, and Pollo Campero has greater accessibility, but none quite live up to the reputation of EPR. Keeping the competitor bashing to a minimum – Super’s birds are over seasoned (though not a bad thing for those with high salt tolerances), Chix’s fowl are under seasoned and pricey (compared to other chicken joints), and Campero usually calls for several antacids after a greasy wrestle with their fried poultry. All are good in their own right, but not outstanding.
Then there’s El Pollo Rico. The Michael Jordan (pre-Wizards) of the chicken world.
I must point out that EPR is a bit of a dive, although it is extremely clean and comfortable. My only criticism is the restaurant’s layout. I’m, admittedly, a bit of a hygiene freak, so I’m not so keen on the fact that the bathrooms are in plain view of the dining area. That’s why I prefer to face the other way and soak in the region’s celebrated diversity. People of all ages, nationalities, and professions regularly congregate here. Great chicken has a way of doing that.
Long lines are the norm and Sunday lunches are likely to produce queues out the door - if you’re sore from leg presses or an hour on the treadmill, best play it safe and go during off peak hours on a weekday. However, lines move at an efficient pace and loyal patrons don’t seem to mind the wait fully knowing just how delicious the payoff will be.
Fans of dry, white meat should head to their nearest Popeyes or KFC outlet because EPR doesn’t do dry. Their whites are as juicy as any dark meat served in the area, and the darks are even juicier. The skin is roasted just enough to acquire the faintest crunch while seasoned perfectly for even the most sensitive of palates. But those who still crave more flavor need look no further than the two side sauces of mustardy mayo and chili verde sauce. They’re a perfect complement to both the chicken and the side of steak fries. Unfortunately, aficionados of fried yucca, a staple at other establishments, are out of luck. The other fixed side of cole slaw consists of a sweet mayo and can be a bit watery. It’s suspect on its own, but tastes pretty darn good when eaten with the fries. Alfajores – a Latin version of the Oreo – are a big dessert seller here in Arlington. They look quite tasty though I’ve never had enough room after my meal to enjoy them.
Light eaters, like myself, can expect to pay about $4 for a quarter-chicken meal, half servings of chicken go for around $7, while those capable of downing a whole bird can expect to shell out around $12.
A whole chicken, steak fries, and slaw for the price of a one-ounce shot at a DC lounge…how’s that for cheap?
El Pollo Rico
Arlington: 932 North Kenmore St.
703.522.3220
Metro: Clarendon
Wheaton: 2541 Ennalls Ave.
301.942.4419
Metro: Wheaton