July 18, 2008
The Weekly Feed: Red Checkered Tablecloth Edition
Adams Morgan mainstay closing
For over 15 years, San Marco has been an Italian mainstay in Adams Morgan. It had long been rumored that it would close, but tomorrow night they will be closing their doors for good. So stop by for a last plate of lasagna and wish owners Pino Mele and Roberto Massarin well.
Dish of the Week: Blue crabs
I'm a little crab obsessed, and I know soft shells have been the dish of the week before. It's part of being from the Baltimore-area, where every event is stocked up with hot crab dip, or crab cakes. And no summer feels complete without some hard shell action on a picnic bench decked out with newspaper, cold beer and sweet white corn. (Although those in the know get their crabs in late August through October when they are at the largest, most plentiful and delicious). Though they don't have the yield that larger crabs such as Dungeness have, nor the ease of popping a mouthful of lump crab, the delicate sweetness of blues make all the work worthwhile. There is a certain sense of accomplishment after emerging with a pile of shells and tiny cuts smarting from Old Bay, knowing that you've defeated the little suckers. Unfortunately, D.C. does not have the small shacks and trucks scattered around that I grew up with, where you could buy your live or steamed crabs. The messiness seems to preclude them from any fine dining scene. So what are your options?
Though it would be preferable to go farther north to Baltimore or Annapolis, you can check out Bethesda Crab House, which dishes out only crabs and not the sides that are available from places like Cameron's or Quarterdeck. The Maine Avenue Fish Market has also proven to be a great resource for both steamed and live crabs.
Photo by geraintwn
Small Bites
Psh ... burgers are so last week
Rumor is Michel Richard might be getting himself in the burger business. He's already proven himself with the burger on his menu at Central. But is he looking to expand, or will the burger joint glut keep him out? One thing is apparent: with the burger issue in the New York Times Dining section this week, D.C. is finally ahead of the game.
Openings and Closings
Add another opening to the list of recent Bethesda additions. Redwood, from the owners of Mendocino Grille and Sonoma, will be opening on Bethesda Row on July 21. The menu focuses on seasonal, organic, and local items as well as wine - though it'll be interesting to see how they deal with all the Montgomery County ABC laws.
Those stumbling home in Clarendon now have a new late-night food option. Open until 2 a.m. every night, Spider Kelly's touts itself as a casual, neighborhood bar/eatery, telling patrons to "come as you are." The bulk of the menu emphasizes burgers, sandwiches, and salads - fare that shouldn't stain your nightlife clothes too badly.
Merkado and its Latin-influenced menu will be closing to make way for Commissary, "an all-purpose cafe, lounge, coffeehouse and wine bar." Given that the Logan Circle/14th Street area has become more of a destination for nightlife, this sounds like a smart move. [via WaPo]
Gerard Pangaud Bistro is closed, at least for now, according to Don Rockwell. A source indicated that the closure is most likely not due to economic reasons, and hopes that it will reopen soon. A permanent closure would be a real shame, as Chef Pangaud was the first two-Michelin starred chef working in the U.S. and was the youngest chef in France to win a second star.




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You need to check out quarterdeck in arlington for your picnic table crab-smashing fix. Or the fish market at maine ave in DC.
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If Blue Crab destruction is your game, the Dancing Crab in Tenleytown would oblige. Probably the last traditional crab shack in DC proper--though it was cooler before it moved.
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Is it true that Spider Kelly's never has a dress code or cover charge? They've been pretty ambivalent about this.
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I would have mentioned Dancing Crab, but the space is being taken over by Hint
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cooter++
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I hope to god Richard sells some plain old working-class sliders instead of that boutique 3-for-$12 things. Yeah, I like a nice mini on brioche, but why can't I get a SINGLE decent bag of White Castle/Krystal burgers in this jerkwater burg? 8th Street is going to have TWO mini burger joints when Matchbox opens, and the Lil Pub mocks me with its Little Tavern exterior and no mini burgers.
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It's a hike out to the hinterlands of NoVa, but the $35 all-you-can-eat crab feast at Capt. Pell's Fairfax Crab House is worth the trek. Come hungry and stay a while.