Chewing the Fat: Carol Blymire of French Laundry At Home
These days when most people label someone as a home cook, instead of a culinary professional, they tend to imagine someone along the lines of Rachael Ray or Paula Deen. And while those two TV personalities have done a lot to get people interested in food, there is another side to home cooking. A whole world of serious, dedicated, and adventurous home cooks are putting down the can opener, stepping away from the bags of pre-washed lettuce and trying to recreate the elegance, art, and skill of haute cuisine at home.
We recently got the opportunity to ask some questions of one such cook, Carol Blymire of French Laundry at Home. Carol’s blog, which was a two-category winner in Well Fed Network’s 2007 Food Blog Awards, chronicles her journey as she cooks every recipe in Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry Cookbook. Carol brings a warm, self-deprecating, and generally hilarious sensibility to the project that will make you giggle and smile. She’s also a fellow Washingtonian, and was gracious enough to answer our questions about the blog, cooking, and her favorite food spots here in the city.
You work in PR and make sure to state quite clearly on the site that you are not a professional chef. That said, when did your interest in cooking first start?
Yes, I am a PR and media consultant, and have never worked in food service, nor have I had any culinary training. Well, there was that one knife skills class six years ago at Sur La Table, but I only took it because the instructor was cute. As for my interest in food and cooking, I was born and raised in the Amish country in Pennsylvania (although I'm not Amish), so I grew up knowing where my food came from -- we always bought from roadside farm stands and our county farmer's market. My grandparents were great cooks and my mom made sure we had a nice dinner every night. That said, there are no memorable, defining moments of us stirring pots side by side or anything. I really became more interested in and aware of food and how much I enjoyed cooking in my late 20s -- about 10 years ago. I was working for Discovery Channel at the time and traveling to places like Morocco, Egypt, Singapore, and Hong Kong -- I think those trips are what really made me want to know more about food and take more risks when cooking at home.
Photo by biskuit
What was it that made you want to use The French Laundry Cookbook as your muse for this project?
I got The French Laundry Cookbook for Christmas in 2000. I'd always revered Thomas Keller and The French Laundry, as well as Michael Ruhlman's writing, but I'd never made one thing out of that beautiful book -- it all felt too intimidating and almost like food that mere mortals like me were not meant to cook. We were only allowed to buy the book, handle it with white gloves, and drool over the photography. Then, one day, I was dusting my bookshelves and in the background heard a television cook talking about how to dump a taco seasoning packet on a rotisserie chicken and call it dinner, and I just thought, "You have got to be kidding me that people are being told this is an acceptable way to cook," so I channeled my anger in what has become a really productive and fun way. Blogging was an afterthought. I was determined to somehow show the world that cooking good food isn't really all that difficult -- you just have to slow down, pay attention to what you're doing and enjoy the time in the kitchen. I started the blog as a way to show my family and friends scattered across the country what I was doing … It does take time, and some of the ingredients are expensive, but this has been the most incredible culinary education.
You've been writing the blog for over a year and a half now and it has been really successful. When you started it, did you envision it becoming something that big? Do you foresee this becoming a possible career option for you?
When I started the blog, I posted using a pseudonym because I honestly didn't think I'd continue it and didn't want to be embarrassed by it if it ended up just sucking. A few months in, I started posting using my real name because it became something I was really proud of. I had no clue it would grow into what it has become. I was thrilled when that stat counter hit 100 for the first time, and I thought that was big news. If you had told me a year ago I'd have won awards, shot a TV pilot, be working on a book, and have met some of my literary and culinary heroes, I'd have told you to "shut the front door."
Speaking of the TV show, any word on that?
No word yet, but my production company, JWM Productions (here in D.C.), is shopping it and we're feeling great about the feedback we're getting. The cool thing about the series we're pitching, In Over Her Head, is that it's so much more than a cooking show. It's all about me, the novice, cooking the world's most difficult dishes -- everything from a feast at Versailles to pulling eels out of the ocean and hunting my own small game to recreate the first Thanksgiving. There's nothing like it on TV right now, which is good, but also means it's a bigger risk for someone to take to air it. Whether or not it gets picked up, it was a blast to shoot and the most rewarding learning experience for me.
Back to the blog ... what has been your favorite recipe from the experience so far?
Top three would be: 1) Roulade of Pekin Duck Breast with Creamed Sweet White Corn and Morel Mushroom Sauce; 2) "Peas and Carrots" -- Maine Lobster Pancakes with Pea Shoot Salad and Ginger -- Carrot Emulsion; and 3) Ile Flottante. And, honorable mention goes to the Pig's Head because it really was delicious and worth every minute of effort. Jeez, now that I really think about it, I could go on and list 20 more dishes I loved. Only a few have been major flops or disappointments -- nearly everything else was pretty freakin' good, if I do say so myself.
What has been the worst? (I'm sure the tripe and soft shell crabs are both high on this list)
That tripe was the worst thing I have EVER MADE IN MY LIFE. That's #1 for sure. Soft shell crabs are a strong #2. Rounding out the bottom are two oyster dishes -- one had pickled oysters, and the other involved oysters with a pepper jelly and cauliflower panna cotta. Both were really, really gross. Mostly because of texture, but the taste didn't help matters much. I'm not a huge fan of oysters to begin with, but of all the oyster preparations in the book, these two were the least appealing.
What are your favorite places to shop for food here in D.C., and why?
For fish and other seafood, BlackSalt Fish Market, because their fishmonger is outstanding and the quality of their product is the best in the city and it's reasonably priced. For produce and eggs, the Takoma Park Farmers' Market. For some meats, Max's Kosher Market in Wheaton. For most other things, Whole Foods in Silver Spring. And, when I visit my family in Pennsylvania, I've been known to bring home a cooler full of things from the farmers' market up there. I buy spices from Adriana's Caravan online, and I grow most of my own herbs here at the house.
When you're not cooking, what are three of your favorite restaurants here in D.C. and the dishes at those restaurants you think everyone should try?
-- Ben's Chili Bowl -- chili/cheese half-smoke with fries, and a chocolate shake.
-- Central Michel Richard -- the corned-beef sandwich for lunch, and the braised shortribs for dinner. I dream about those shortribs -- he does them sous vide for 72 hours and it's like slicing butter when they're done.
-- Thai Derm (Bonifant Street in Silver Spring) -- their Panang Chicken Curry is the best I've ever had.
-- Honorable mention: Woodlands and Udupi Palace (both are vegetarian Indian restaurants) in Langley Park. Best in the region, as far as I'm concerned.