Pet Worth: This Month's Highly Adoptable Animals
New Whole Foods to Open Up Exactly Where it is Needed Least
Jack Evans Hops Aboard a SmartBike at Bike Lane Unveiling
The Weekly Feed: Experimentation Edition
Morning Roundup: Change Edition
Drink in the Details is a monthly column highlighting spirits and classic cocktails written by DC Craft Bartenders Guild members Adam Bernbach (Bar Pilar) and Chantal Tseng (Tabard Inn).
Chantal’s sister once excused herself to the ladies room during the course of a long tasting menu at a nice restaurant. Turns out that she knew some kung fu breathing exercises that would help her expand her stomach so she could regain her appetite and continue feasting. Unfortunately, she would give no hint as to what kind of mojo she performed that night. We can, however, offer a couple strategies for easing the pain of overindulgence for this Thanksgiving via the drinking of particular types of bitter spirits.
The word bitter is often associated with unpleasant sensations. It's not sweet, salty, or sour. It’s the other: jarring and confusing. But there is a scientific reason for “bitter.” The tiny flavoring agents that make something taste bitter act the same way that poisonous substances do in our bodies, by triggering a response. When the human body detects an unwanted or potentially dangerous substance, it spikes one's metabolism, which then instigates hunger in order to more efficiently process said substances. Our bodies are designed to rid themselves of anything that might be harmful as quickly as they can.
So let's say you're staring down a Thanksgiving table of turkey, ham, fish, casserole, sweet potatoes, pasta salad, beets, cranberries, etc… If you don't try one of everything, Grandma, Auntie Ambrosia, your brother-in-law, and your second cousin from your dad's first marriage will all be emotionally scarred for life. Relax. A pre-meal ritual of Campari & Soda or an Aperol Grapefruit Spritzer is traditional among the gourmands of Italy. Light in body, bright with citrus, these two bitter aperitivi are an amazing way to get your tummy ready for a feast. Too much on your plate? Take five deep long breaths and then shoot down a bittersweet Amaro like Nonino or Nardini. It's time to send a warning to your digestive system that it’s about to become a serious churning machine.
Photo by michaelwhays
Post-meal, you are, perhaps, on the verge of severe heartburn and you've only got eyes for Maalox, Pepto, or Mylanta. But, before the pill popping, pink deluge begins, consider this: Alcohol tastes better. (At least, we think so.) How about a digestif instead? Take that grinding and churning wheel of an intestinal tract and calm it down with a heavier spirited beverage. The dawn of time didn't happen in one binge of a night, no need for to rush the digestive work load. Stretch it out. Italian Grappa, French Marc, Portuguese Aguardente and other pomace brandies come to mind. They are replete with subtle bittering agents due to the pressing of the grape skins pre-fermentation. Bitter grape tannins are mostly found in the skins, stems and leaves of the plant. Upon pressing, a very potent juice is then fermented and distilled at 60 to 120 proof.
If it’s a "code red" situation, there’s one tried and true option: Fernet Branca. This intensely bitter digestivo is an aromatic spirit with a base of grape brandy and flavored with over 40 different herbs and spices, including chamomile, aloe, saffron, myrrh, rhubarb, cardamom, anise and tree bark. Like most heavily bittered and herbed spirits, the recipe is a guarded secret. Originally created by Maria Scala in 1845 as a medicine (treating cholera was one of its aims), today people commonly drink it to relieve stomach cramps and indigestion.
When preparing the aperitivi, like Campari and Aperol, consider some citrus, sparkling wine, or tonic water. Adam’s brother-in-law is partial to muddling a slice of Jaffa orange with Campari, then topping it off with tonic water. The Amari run the spectrum of the medium body. Something like Montenegro, with its bitter Sevilla orange qualities, isn't too far from an aperitif. It can be used in a similar manner, but won't be out of place next to a spiced rum or a wheat-based bourbon. Averna or Ramazzotti are fuller-bodied, but both have an inviting warmth that's well-suited in a "Black Manhattan." When it comes to using Fernet, it's best used sparingly. Its bite can tilt a drink off-balance very quickly. A mere dash, however, can bring a world of complexity to a cocktail. Try subbing it instead of Angostura to change a tipple's entire focus.
Ginger Aperitivo (Chantal Tseng, Tabard Inn)
¾ oz. Averna Amaro
½ oz. Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur
1 oz. Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice
San Pellegrino Chinotto Soda
Build drink over ice in highball glass. Add Ginger Liqueur, Averna & OJ. Then fill with Chinotto Soda and garnish with orange wheel.
Brookland (Adam Bernbach, Bar Pilar)
2 oz. Old Bardstown Bourbon
1 oz. Amaro Montenegro
.25 oz. Red Wine
1 dash Luxardo Maraschino liquor
Stir. Strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with orange twist.
add to stumble upon
add to reddit
tweet this
post to facebook
"today people commonly drink it to relieve stomach cramps and indigestion."
or shoot it to prove their "manhood" ... this stuff is really strong flavored. Sometimes (most times) it takes a lot to keep it down, other times, it's great. Let this be a warning to anyone who rushes out to buy some of this stuff this week. I've only found two US towns that pride themselves on consuming this beverage: SF and Boston. Good luck!
Isn't that what bulimia is for? Digestifs are nice and all, but the tried and true "trip to the bathroom" to empty at both ends is how old school pilgrims did it. Yes siree.
I bought some Campari when stocking up my liquor cabinet. That stuff is nasty. Mixing it with soda and adding a spoonful of sugar didn't help it either.
Never warmed up to Campari as an apertif, either. Almost as bad as green Chartreuse. I'll stick with white port, amontillado, armagnac, or some frozen aquavit. Skôl!
love, love, love Campari.
Fernet Branca is a great way to end an evening, intentionally or otherwise.
Never warmed up to Campari as an apertif, either. Almost as bad as green Chartreuse. I'll stick with white port, amontillado, armagnac, or some frozen aquavit. Skôl!
I wish I had known that you liked aquavit, I just tossed a bottle when we were moving out here. Shots of rye bread? No thanks.
I'm still scarred by my one experience with Campari in Switzerland. When the family was driving from Germany to Switzerland I had seen it on the billboards and we all assumed it was some sort of soda. So I ordered one at the restaurant and they brought it to me . . . when I was FUCKING EIGHT YEARS OLD!!! I took one sip and almost barfed. Did you know that shit is made with artichokes and beetle shells?
My favorite way to drink Campari is in a classic Negroni on the rocks. Super easy recipe, equal parts Campari, Dry Gin, and Sweet Vermouth. Garnish with an orange slice or lemon twist. Great cocktail before a nice meal!