Five O'Clock Meeting: Dino

dino%20002.jpg Who isn’t peckish for a little snack by the end of the work day? The folks at Dino in Cleveland Park know how you feel—but of course, being an Italian restaurant, the words “little” and “snack” aren’t ones that are juxtaposed there very often. Their new happy hour, which has been underway for just under a month, showcases both Dino’s well-established talent for quelling the need for a nosh and its revamped cocktails list and ample selection of wines by the glass. A 25 percent discount on cocktails and wines by the glass—many of which are very reasonably priced—along with a spread of small bites set out along the bar that rival a meal make Dino’s happy hour worth a visit. Specials run from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday nights.

Your first glimpse of the bar upon arriving suggests that Dino’s happy hour fare—which is all complimentary, did we mention that?—literally scoffs at the idea of beer nuts or stale pretzels as “bar food.” Huge bowls of marinated olives, house-made pickles and a variety of meats line the bar from end to end. Vinegar lovers will swoon over the pickled turnips, carrots, beans and celery, which are well-seasoned and very tart, but manage to avoid any of the over-saltiness and sog all too often plaguing pickles. White lupini beans tossed with hot Italian peppers, herbs and a sweet marinade, where the peppers make the dish exciting and savory without overpowering, are also worth a mention.

For the carnivores, Dino is also not skimping on its charcuterie for happy hour. On a recent visit the bar boasted thin-sliced cured pork sausage and two different kinds of pâté: a duck liver spread perfect for smearing on tiny crostini, and a hearty country-style pork and duck pate dotted with dried fruits.

Dino’s wide selection of wines by the glass—18 at last count—and some of the items on new beverage director Scott Palmer’s fall cocktail list are great accompaniments to the veritable happy hour picnic the restaurant is offering, or vice versa, depending on whether you’re more food- or drink-obsessed. Wines are available in 3 ounce or 8 ounce portions, giving you room to taste more than one or pick a favorite and stick to it. Palmer, who was our host at the bar on our visit, has picked some winners for the wine list, including the crisp, flavorful ‘07 Di Lenardo tocai friulano, ($4 for 3 ounce portion), a '03 Ada Nada “Valeirano” nebbiolo from Barbaresco ($8) and a 2007 nero d’Avola from Cossentino ($3), which he deems a perfect “pizza wine.” Fall cocktails include the Spiced Chianti Fizz ($10)—a refreshing balance of chianti, Acquavite d’Arancia, citrus and clove, star anise and other spices—as well as the Gingered Pear Sidecar made with Gilles Brisson V.S. Cognac and Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur ($11) and a Sicilian manhattan made with Maker’s Mark, Amaro Averna and Carpano Antica Formula ($11).

The arrangement of dishes around the arc-shaped bar means that if you want to sample everything Dino is offering, you’ll have to exchange some pleasantries with your happy hour neighbor in order to ask them to pass the pâté. This dynamic, along with the lively character of the restaurant’s ground-floor dining room adjacent to the bar, makes for a very congenial, social atmosphere. At the same time, the 10-seat bar is not made for crowds, so Dino might be a better place to catch up with a friend or two over a glass of wine, rather than a destination for a big group.

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Comments (8) [rss]

'tis a shame that dino isn't closer to downtown.

then again, that's probably a good thing for the people who do manage to get there for this. cuts back on the crowds.

$8 a glass is a pretty good deal for a Barbaresco that goes for nearly $30 a bottle. And Barbarescos are an excellent companion for cured meats and strong cheeses. Great with a big steak, too.

user-pic

IMGoph: The only times I've been there and it was crowded, were New Year's Eve, and Valentine's Day. It's usually pretty easy to just walk in off the street and get a table, at least on weeknights and early Friday/Saturday night.

Is there anything better than free cured meats?

Is there anything better than free cured meats?

No. I love bars in Holland and Germany where the spontaneous passing of free meats is rather commonplace.

In DC, yr lucky if they don't spontaneously pass wind.

user-pic

Well then again in Holland and Germany, people don't flip out on you if you're sitting at a cafe and happen to rip a thunderous raunchbomb of a fart. Trust me, it's a bit more acceptable to behave in such a manner over there.

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