The menu chalkboard drawn by Chantal Tseng of Tabard Inn (Eric Denman)

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It's a cold, dark night, and I'm looking for a speakeasy that should be next door to Marvin. I'm not quite sure what to do. I spy a set of ringers, with a small label next to one: The Gibson. I press it. A door opens, and the bouncer quickly waves me in. He checks ID with the low light from his cell phone; as he explains, the phone is dimmer, all the better for the incognito theme. He escorts me into the bar, where I grab a seat. The first thing I notice is how amazing the place smells: It smells like Christmas.

The space is a good match with its sister establishments, Marvin and the Eighteenth Street Lounge. Brian Miller, the designer who also worked on Marvin, has made lush appointments with intricately embossed black leather and warm unfinished wood on the bar and cozy booths. A patio will open soon in the back, and the back room sports an absinthe fountain. A chalkboard is updated with the list of drinks to give imbibers a quick view of the menu. The joint is a tribute: not to the Gibson cocktail, but to Elsworth Gibson, a much-missed D.C. native, pianist, and Eighteenth Street Lounge house band resident.

The cocktail menu is arranged by primary liquors: vodka/gin, rum/tequila, whiskey/whisky, brandy/other spirits, and bubbles. Wines are also available for those who are not interested in cocktails.The best way to start off the night is with one of the warm winter drinks — and the whisky skin is probably the best way to do that. It contains Old Famous Grouse Blended Scotch, Demerara sugar, lemon peel, and hot water; the lemon peel is held to a flame so that it warms and releases its oils. The scent of the drink is reminiscent of tea, but then the richness of the whiskey starts to come through in the rising steam and next thing you're enjoying the caramelized hints of the Demerara and lemon.

After the warmup, it's time to get down to business.

The reason the joint smells like Christmas is the Salad Days Sour — celery-infused Macchu Pisco, The Bitter Truth celery bitters, and burnt cinnamon. Batches of cinnamon are burned in a skillet, adding a pleasing yet not overwhelming, spicy tinge to the air. Topped with nearly an inch of egg white foam, the drink is garnished with a long, thin peeling of carrot and the burnt cinnamon. With a character like a light carrot cake, this drink is quickly becoming a favorite among customers despite the high-novelty factor.

For those who prefer a little more acidity, there's the Jackelope, which combines Weller Antique 107 Bourbon, American oak-infused maple syrup, lemon juice, and orange juice. The Interwebs agree on a totally different recipe for this drink, but the Gibson's manages to stand on its own. The flavors hint at a Brown Derby, with the bright citrus flavors and slow warmth of bourbon and maple syrup.

Not straying too far from the citrus-y Jackelope, the Brunswick Sour (Appleton Estate white rum, lime juice, and merlot float) takes the traditional pairing of rum with lime and substitutes sugar with a thin layer of carefully poured merlot on top. It's hard to imagine the combination working well together, but the merlot adds a depth that sugar could never add.

For those old-school drinkers who think all the crazy ingredients are for fancypants, there's the Old Fashioned (the old-fashioned way). There is some contention over which liquor to use, but you can't go wrong with the simplicity of Gibson's drink: Rittenhouse Bonded Rye, Fee's aromatic bitters, and lemon.

The absinthe frappe is an off-menu treat for absinthe fans. In this drink, absinthe appears in a slightly less alcoholic yet still pure form. Absinthe, sugar, and water are mixed and shaken with crushed ice until the mixture is obscenely cold. Accordingly, it's served in a metal julep glass so that a thin frost forms on the outside.

The bar observes some rules to maximize the patron's experience. Like the Saloon, there is no standing at the bar, which is a blessing: No one wants to be jostled and spill their precious drink. But unlike the Saloon, you can give your digits to one of the staff who will call you when space opens up, and give you 8 minutes to claim it. (Well within the time it would take you to walk from Marvin, Saint-Ex, Bar Pilar, and even the Saloon.) If you know that the Gibson is where you want to be, you can make a reservation between 6–10 p.m. and secure a table for up to 2 hours (so everyone gets a chance at getting in).

During my visit, someone ordered a vodka and cranberry. It was a little shocking. While there is nothing wrong with ordering that drink — especially since the bartenders at the Gibson are sure to make you the best vodka and cranberry you've ever had — if you're in the mood for that, you ought to go somewhere else. In light of all the interesting drink options, from the traditional to the unique, take advantage of what the Gibson has to offer — not a drink you can order at Chili'sTuesdayGIFriday. If you're not sure what to get, ask. Have an in-depth chat with your bartender about your likes and you're sure to find something to please — or you may discover something new.

The Gibson
2009 14th St. NW
202-232-2156
Metro: U Street-Cardozo
Hours: Weds-Thu and Sun 6pm - 1am, Fri-Sat 6pm - 2am