Eating In: Salted Caramel Pots De Crème
While most kids were licking their fingers after dipping into the sugar bowl or squeezing mounds of maple syrup on to their pancakes, I took to sprinkling salt on my hands and licking it. (This was long before I knew that people usually follow this with tequila and a lime.)
There has been a definite trend toward the addition of coarse salt to sweets. It's been spotted on the brownies at Trader Joe's, and for many in the District, we've always loved Teaism's salty oat cookie. It has now reached the mainstream with the sale of sea salt caramels at Walmart, but has failed to reach many home kitchens.
This recipe for salted caramel pots de crème came out of a desire to do something different from the usual holiday desserts. Pots de crème is a creamy, rich, baked custard that is essentially crème brûlée without the caramelized sugar top. Initially, the hot water bath seems slightly intimidating, but it is simple and makes a world of difference.
Salted Caramel Pots De Crème
Adapted from Daniel Boulud's recipe for Coffee-Cardamom Pots De Crème
3/4 cup sugar (split into 1/2 cup and 1/4 cup portions)
1/4 tsp. salt
2 cups (approximately) heavy cream (split into 1 cup portions)
1 cup whole milk
7 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon (approximately) coarse sea salt
Note: You will also need to heat water in a kettle or a pan that will be easy to pour in a controlled fashion
1. In a saucepan over medium heat put 1/2 cup of sugar and salt with just enough water to moisten. Stir without stop until the sugar caramelizes; it should thicken and be amber in color.
2. Remove the pan from the heat, and slowly pour 1 cup each of cream and milk, being careful not to get splattered. It will sputter a little, and the caramel will get hard and thready. Return the pan to the heat to melt the caramel until the caramel melts into the liquid. Set aside to cool.
3. Place a rack at the middle setting in the oven and preheat to 300°F.
4. Add heavy cream to your caramel cream mixture to bring the liquid measurement of the mixture up to 2 cups.
5. Working in a bowl that’s large enough to hold all the ingredients, whisk the yolks and remaining 1/4 cup sugar together until the mixture is pale and thick.
6. Very gradually and very gently—not to create air bubbles—whisk your caramel into the egg mixture; skim off the top foam, if there is any. (Bubbles will show up in your final custard.)
7. Arrange six 4-ounce espresso or ramekins in a small roasting pan, and fill each cup nearly to the top with the custard mixture, again, being careful not to create bubbles. Slide the pan into the oven; then fill the roasting pan with enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and poke two holes in diagonal corners.
8. Bake the custards for about 40 minutes, or until the edges darken ever so slightly and the custards are set but still jiggle a little in the center when you shake them gently.
9. Remove the pan from the oven and let the custards sit in the water bath for 10 minutes, leaving the foil on top.
10. Cool your custards in the fridge.
To serve: Sprinkle the coarse sea salt on top of the custards. I also like to serve this with chocolate malt whipped cream. The original recipe recommends serving them at room temperature, which would require setting them out for 20 minutes before serving. I prefer a nice, cool custard straight out of the fridge.
Tips:
1. When separating the eggs, use three bowls: one to catch the white from the egg you are separating, one for the yolks, and another to hold all of the already separated whites. Many recipes that call for beating eggs white require getting them to soft peak stage, which is near impossible when you have even the slightest bit of yolk in them. The three-bowl method will save you if you mess up leaving you eating lots of egg white omelets.
2. You can prepare the mixture ahead of time and transport it.
3. You can experiment with the type of sugar and salt. Demerara sugar is sure to add an extra depth to the caramel. Vary the salt with one like Maldon smoked sea salt that is available at Whole Foods.