First Look: Pho 14
It's not every day that a tiny mom-and-pop ethnic restaurant is so hotly anticipated. But ever since Prince of Petworth posted a picture of the maroon awning and "Coming Soon" banner, local blogs have been buzzing about the prospect of more Vietnamese food in the city. Pho 14 in Columbia Heights finally opened on Wednesday, and judging by the lines out the door this weekend, D.C. can't get enough pho.
Pho 14 offers 19 different iterations of pho, 17 with beef, plus one chicken and one vegetarian version. There are five varieties of beef alone (eye-of-round steak, well-done and fat brisket, well-done and skirt flank), plus tripe, tendon, and meatballs. All soups come with the traditional selection of do-it-yourself toppings: bean sprouts, Thai basil, chilis, lime, Sriracha, and hoisin sauce. If you're not in the mood for soup, there's also a selection of bun (grilled meat over rice noodles and fresh veggies), rice dishes, and banh mi (French bread sandwiches).
It is arguably the broth that makes or breaks a bowl of pho, and Pho 14's version is not too shabby. The flavor is mildly beefy, with delicate notes of anise and cinnamon. It's not as deeply meaty or spiced as Pho 75 in Rosslyn, but it's more intense than the broth at Nam Viet. Use a light hand when adding hot sauce or lime so as to not overpower the meat and spices. Pho is available in two wallet-friendly sizes -- a large bowl is $8.95 and a regular bowl is $7.95.
Pho 14's grilled beef bun is also tasty, if a bit light on the veggies. The beef needed to marinated just a bit longer and allowed to develop a deeper char on the grill. The bun is also available with grilled chicken, shrimp, pork, tofu, or egg rolls ($8 - $11).
The real gem during my visit to Pho 14 was the banh mi. The French bread is top notch--crusty on the outside and pillowy on the inside--and the fillings are fresh and flavorful. Each sandwich is stuffed with slices of cucumber, pickled carrot and daikon, jalapeño, cilantro, and smeared with a little mayonnaise. Fillings include grilled chicken, beef, and pork, marinated pork, pork pate, pork skin, and Sumaco fish (a kind of canned fish similar to sardines). The banh mi bi was is my favorite so far. It is a trifecta of porky flavors and textures -- earthy, grainy pate, simultaneously chewy and crunchy skin, and marinated tenderloin chunks. The banh mi are $8.95 and come with an appetizer and cup of soup.
Pho 14 has been packed since opening day, and the service is understandably overwhelmed. Our dishes arrived at different times instead of all at once, and it was difficult to flag down a server to ask for utensils. That said, the staff was extremely apologetic and comped us our iced tea and coffee. Things are always a bit rocky when a restaurant first opens, but I suspect that the owners didn't imagine business would be this brisk their first week. Hopefully with a little time and practice, Pho 14 will be running smoothly. If this weekend is any indication, they are off to a promising start.
Pho 14
1436 Park Road NW
Washington, DC 20010
Metro: Columbia Heights
Hours: 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.