First Look: Potenza

Potenza001-1.jpg
Potenza's rabbit and truffle stuffed tortelloni with white asparagus sauce.
Word to the wise: when you make your first visit to Potenza, avoid the compulsion to fill up on the bread. It’s a feat that will not be easy, as that basket full of impeccably fresh focaccia, perfectly crunchy grissini and whatever else just came out of the oven stares you down, wafting its delicious aromas at you. But there are other things to look forward to at the latest restaurant from the creators of Zola and the new Zola Wine & Kitchen, which opened last month at the corner of 15th and H St. NW.

Potenza founder Dan Mesches and his partner, Ralph Rosenberg, have taken a formerly disjointed retail space and converted it into a warm, inviting restaurant that is as versatile as it is professional. The place could serve just as well for a quick bite before the theater as for a family dinner or a long, lingering meal to celebrate a special occasion. They’ve also covered all their bases, complementing the restaurant with an adjacent wine shop and an in-house bakery available for carryout. Potenza’s rustic Italian fare is complemented by a host of signature cocktails—try the capriani, a mix of grappa, muddled grapes and limes—and Italian wines chosen by wine and spirits director Elli Benchimol, a Zola veteran.

Potenza’s menu, which was designed by Executive Chef Bryan Moscatello, is full of dishes inspired by the creators’ visit to Tuscany. It brings a hearty, home-cooked feeling Italian cuisine the neighborhood, paired with the baking prowess of Breadline creator Mark Furstenberg, which explains the yummy bread basket. The warmly but not overly lit dining room is casual without being chintzy, with aged tile, rich wood floors and black and white photo portraits of the likes of Frank Sinatra and Lena Horne Gina Lollobrigida lining the walls.

Start off your meal with some antipasti. Fried risotto balls ($8) stuffed with wild boar sausage are crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. Another combines seafood with a classic Italian salad: charred octopus over a re-imagined panzanella with crunchy croutons and charred lemon vinaigrette ($9).

As for entrees, the pastas on the menu take center stage. The 11 offerings include a traditional rigatoni “and Sunday Gravy,” ($18) as well as the more refined rabbit and truffle-stuffed tortelloni in white asparagus and truffle sauce ($18)—a dream for those who are of the “you can never have too much truffle” mindset. If you’re still hungry, there are also a number of fish and meat dishes featured—but save room for dessert.

The final course features a number of Italian specialties including chocolate-dipped cannoli filled with mascarpone cream, augmented by orange zest and mini-chocolate chips, and by-the-books tiramisu.

If you don't happen to be looking for a four-course meal, Potenza's menu also includes ultra-thin crust pizzas baked in a 6000 pound wood-burning oven. The gorgonzola dolce is crisp and light, even with its toppings of preserved tomato sauce, gorgonzola, mache and aged balsamic drizzle. There's also a classic margherita, the funghi with three kinds of mushrooms, and the salame picante with spicy soppresetta.

Potenza
1430 H St. NW
(202) 638-4444
Hours: Mon.-Thurs.: 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Fri. & Sat.: 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m.
Sun.: Brunch, 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m., Dinner, 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.

Bakery Hours:
Mon. - Fri.: 8 a.m. - 8 p.m.
Sat.: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
Sun.: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.

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Comments (7) [rss]

Another combines seafood with a classic Italian salad: charred octopus over a re-imagined panzanella with crunchy croutons and charred lemon vinaigrette ($9).

Why, this is nothing but a shameless ripoff of Junkpunchers' signature dish: burnt squid on Stouffers breadcrumbs and Summer's Eve® Vinegar and Water Douche vinagrette! As for "ultra thin pizzas," they have yet to beat the classic Cap'n Goatse's Poop Deck "deconstructed" version: a Kraft Individual Slice of American Cheese, drizzled with Ro-Tel, and served with a healthy side of STFU. The crust is so ultra-thin, it ISN'T EVEN THERE. It's only "implied." Quite playful, no?

You can be certain I'm airing my misspelled indignation on yelp.com this very moment. Just be glad I'm not airing it out with no pants on and letting it hang out a moving car window.

Actually its not Lena Horne, its Gina Lollobrigida.

user-pic

Am I being unfair here, or does this read more like an advertisement than a "news" item?

If DCist is trying to provide a service to its readers by posting stuff like this, I'd rather see a real review than either a rehashing of the restaurants PR release or a fake article written by a local blogger that wants to get free meals from a restaurant or free drinks from Laughing Man or free wine at Vinoteca.

I don't think you're being unfair. But is it not a 'real review' because there is no criticism?

It may very well be that the reviewer had a nice time at the restaurant and enjoyed everything they had. I'd rather see a rehash of a PR than a review that has to hunt for negatives and blow them out of proportion just to appear 'balanced'.

looks like just enough food to feed a rabbit.

Rabbit and truffle stuffed tortelloni with white asparagus sauce = So. Much. Want.

@Jerf. I've seen worse. Seems like a newbie blogger who thinks she needs to cram in the adjectives in order to be taken as a "serious" food writer (or is that an oxymoron?). Of course I could be wrong: "baking prowess," "wafting," and "re-imagined" are integral terms in any number of hack PR pieces.

ive eaten there. its not bad. id go back. does this constitute an advertisement? if so, please pay me asap.

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