The Weekly Feed: When in Rome Edition

Penne carbonara with peas (Alicia Mazzara)

No one really knows the origin of spaghetti carbonara. "Alla carbonara" means "coal worker's style," which has been taken to mean that the dish was either originally eaten by coal workers or cooked over a coal fire. Another possibility is that the dish is named after black pepper flakes, which resemble bits of coal dust. Perhaps the most charming theory is that carbonara was invented in 1944 during the liberation of Rome by Allied forces. Food was scarce and the only rations the Allies brought were powdered eggs and bacon. Enterprising Italians took the rations, mixed them with dried pasta and cheese, and carbonara was born.

Whatever the true story, "carbonara" refers to pasta dressed in a creamy sauce of eggs, cheese, and cured pork (guanciale or pancetta). Done right, the sauce will be silky smooth and the meat will be intensely salty and crisp. Pasta Mia whips up a mean penne carbonara, but if you're not in the mood to fight the crowds and slow service, try making it at home. It's easy, fast, and the ingredients are cheap and readily available at any store year round. I like to add peas and onions to my carbonara -- they add a touch of sweetness, not to mention some vegetable matter to an otherwise rich sauce.

Penne Carbonara
Adapted from Chow.com

4 strips of bacon, cut into 1" pieces or 4 oz diced pancetta
1/4 of an onion, diced
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup fresh or frozen peas, thawed
1/2 lb dried penne or other pasta shape
Fresh ground black pepper and salt to taste

1. Cook bacon in a skillet over medium low heat. When the fat begins to turn translucent and liquefy, add diced onions. Cook until bacon is crispy and onions are soft and browned. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

2. Bring a pot of of salted water to boil. While water is heating, whisk egg and egg yolk together in a small bowl. Add the grated cheese and whisk until cheese is coated with the eggs.

3. Add pasta to boiling water and cook according to the package. When pasta is al dente, drain and return cooked pasta to the pot.

4. Pour eggs, bacon, onions, and bacon drippings over the pasta. The hot noodles will cook the eggs and make a creamy sauce, but to avoid scrambling the eggs, you will need to work quickly and stir vigorously. Stir in peas and season with salt, if necessary (the cheese and bacon are already salty, so be sure to taste first). Top with lots of freshly ground black pepper and more grated Parmesan.

Serves 2.