First Look: Star and Shamrock
Star and Shamrock Tavern and Deli is the latest eatery to sprout up on H Street NE. Doors opened last weekend for a soft opening period, and the restaurant's full menu rolls out tonight. Think deli with an occasional sprinkle of Irish/Jewish fusion sprinkled in.
There's a fried food-heavy appetizer menu, featuring fried kosher pigs in a blanket, fried pickles, fried chicken livers, fried matzo balls, and latkes all priced at $5.
The matzo balls are cut in half, griddled and served with sautéed onions and “au jew” instead of au jus. The balls stand well enough on their own with a slightly crisped exterior - not too hard, not too fluffy - especially when you combine a bite with the caramelized onion. Dip a forkful in the “au jew,” a salty chicken consommé, and you get a more traditional matzo ball soup taste experience.
There were four generously sized potato latkes in our order. Though seemingly made from a mix of shredded potato and latke mix that wasn't necessarily a bad thing. They're served golden brown, salted just so, and taste great with what the menu says is a homemade sour cream that definitely packs a tart kick.
Along with a few soups, sandwiches make up the rest of the menu. There are 12 single-ingredient deli sandwiches (corned beef, tuna salad, beef brisket, etc.) that range in price from $6.50 to $8.50, and nine special sandwiches. The Star and the Shamrock loads pastrami, corned beef, chopped liver, Swiss, Thousand Island dressing, and a latke between two slices of rye bread. Meanwhile, the Latke Madness evokes thoughts of KFC's touted Double Down. At $9, the Madness includes three potato pancakes and hot corned beef, but no bread to speak of. Alas, the fried potato sandwiches were unavailable during our soft opening visit.
Our plain pastrami sandwich—a benchmark by which all delis should be graded—was passable, with pink meat and a briny flavor. You won’t confuse the cold cut slices or the height of the sandwich with that of a legendary New York deli. The sanwich comes with your choice of bread, and the option to overstuff it for an extra $2.50.
This Irish/deli-themed bar is far from a kosher joint with bacon included in a number of menu options. Not to mention the nods to an Irish kitchen are few and far between. There’s Shepherd’s Pie, Irish Potato & Cheddar Soup, and a McTuna Melt with Irish cheddar. There’s also The Clogger, a disgusting (or delicious! -ed.) sounding sub made with beef brisket, provolone, bacon, gravy, garlic butter, and mayo.
Ireland is more appropriately channeled via several Irish whiskeys, including selections from Jams, Knappogue Castle, Yyrconnell, Killbeggan, Connemara, Greenore, Clontarf, as well as several standards. And naturally you can choose from Guinness, Harp, and Kilkenny Cream Ale on tap. The rest of the beer list is heavy on Brooklyn Brewery, Coney Island, and He’brew bottles. If you're in the mood for rye, their list is lengthier than most, but doesn't feature any stand outs.
There were no ballads or klezmer tunes playing in the background on our visit, though there is a small stage to host the occasional Irish band. There’s not a wall full of “Guinness is Good for You” or too much baloney about all the craic you’ll have (though there is Jewish Bologna on pumpernickel for $6.50). But perhaps that lack of manufactured flair makes for a more authentic Irish tavern experience in the end. That and a menu full of Jewish kitsch.
Additional reporting by Rebecca Cooper
Star and Shamrock Tavern and Deli
1314 H Street NE
Washington, DC 20002
202-388-3833
11 a.m. to closing time, every day