Chilean sea bass with garlic black bean sauce, rapini, and kombucha squash

The Washington dining scene is known more for its glut of tapas than its pan Asian cuisine. But tapas and pan Asian restaurants are similar in some ways: The best examples are inventive and exciting, and the worst are watered down and overpriced. If you tend to be a purist, pan Asian cuisine can seem rather unnecessary. Why pay more to have all your favorite Japanese, Thai, and Chinese flavors muddled together on a plate? In the wrong hands, it can be a disaster. But, in the spirit of Restaurant Week adventure, I decided to give pan Asian a chance and booked dinner at TenPenh.

For Restaurant Week, TenPenh is offering a choice of six appetizers, any entree on the regular menu, and three desserts. The only upcharge is on the smoked Chinese lobster, which is an additional $9. TenPenh is owned by the same folks who run DC Coast, so it’s not surprising that seafood features prominently on the menu: Eight of the 12 entrees are either fish or shellfish.

For our first course, we ordered the Filipino lumpia spring rolls and chicken roti canai. Like many Americans, I’ve met very few fried foods that I didn’t like, and in this sense the spring rolls did not disappoint. Though a little greasy, the ground meat was just salty enough, and the skin was golden and crunchy. The rolls were served with three dipping sauces — a sweet chili sauce, Chinese black vinegar, and a toasted sesame aioli. The sweet chili sauce was reminiscent of your typical spring roll dipping sauce, but the nutty, creamy sesame aioli made a delightful pairing with the meat filling.