Chawanmushi topped with sea urchin, caviar, and shiso leaf. Photo by takaokun.

Dish of the Week: Chawanmushi

Where: Kushi, Sushi Taro

The first thing most people associate with Japanese cuisine is sushi, but the wide variety of dishes beyond the usual bites of raw fish and rice are equally tasty. Chawanmushi, a delicate egg custard, is one such example. Eggs are beaten with dashi stock and then steamed until the custard is barely set, creating a consistency similar to soft tofu. This savory appetizer is usually topped with a variety of vegetables or seafood, such as shiitake mushrooms, scallions, crab, or sea urchin.

If you’re used to associating custard with cream and sugar, chawanmushi might take some getting used to at first. Think of it as a sort of savory flan, rather than something you would enjoy for dessert. The beauty of chawanmushi is in its versatility: It’s a perfect food for any season. Served hot, chawanmushi is like eating a soothing, eggy soup, but it’s also light enough to be refreshing when consumed cold.

You can order chawanmushi at Kushi, which features a custard of the day. On a recent trip, the chawanmushi featured a treasure of mushrooms, tiny shrimp, little green edamame, and sea urchin. Sushi Taro also serves chawanmushi with their bento box lunches. If you’d rather take a DIY approach, Mark Bittman has some instructions on how to make it at home.