Döner kebab in Cologne, Germany by Alex Kehr.

Dish of the Week: Dürüm and döner kebabs

One of the best parts about traveling is the food. But that experience is usually bittersweet, at least as soon as you discover that you can’t find that food when you return, or find it offered in a different way than you remember it. During a recent trip to Vienna, dürüm and döner kebabs were those foods for me. Popularized in Europe by Turkish immigrants, a spit (similar to ones for gyros) is speared with lamb or chicken, which is then thinly shaved and quickly browned in a pan.

While the döner kebab is served in a dense pita, dürüm wraps that same filling of shaved meat, lettuce, tomato, pickled cabbage and yogurt sauce in a thin lavash bread. Wonderfully crisp bread for the döner combines deliciously with the meat. Though thin lavash really allows you to taste the meat, piquancy and richness that you enjoy so much you don’t want to over-think or dissect what’s going on.

Naturally, other variations which incorporate local customs exist, such as serving the meat on French baguettes or sauces with Hungarian paprika. Its popularity has surpassed a lot of traditional hand held foods such as wurst and fish n’ chips.

Much like the argument that the best New York pizza can only be found in New York, places like Divan Lounge, Schwarma King and Urfa Tomato Kebab simply can’t hold a candle to the dürüm and döner offered in Europe. Is it the water in the dough? The variety of toppings? The secret blend of seasonings? Maybe it’s just the exhilaration of travel. Here’s to hoping that someone can bring that spirit and deliciousness to D.C.