Photo by laura padgett.

In last Friday’s Weekly Feed, I noted that Elisir is serving a $19 bar lunch, which includes an entree, non-alcoholic drink and dessert. It seemed a bit on the pricey side to me, though at D.C. prices, it’s not entirely unreasonable. Chef Enzo Fargione was likely taking a cue from his former employer, Teatro Goldoni, which offers a $16 bar lunch, which includes an entree with a glass of wine, draft beer or soda.

So it was with interest when I noticed this quote from DiningBisnow’s interview with Fargione:

The idea was not to offer a white tablecloth experience because in this area, I was pretty much sure I was going to shoot myself in the foot….For lunch, we’re going to give you the same plastic menus that TGI Fridays has, so you can feel that it is affordable.

Well, since Fargione made the comparison, let’s break it down! At T.G.I. Friday’s, shelling out an additional buck will get you (and assumedly, a dining partner) a stock American chain dinner for two — two entrees, and a choice of appetizer or dessert. Obviously, I don’t question that the quality of the food you’ll eat at Elisir is much better than what’s served at T.G.I. Friday’s. But I doubt that, as customers, we are all so dumb that, if we receive a plastic menu, we’re psychologically convinced our meal is affordable.

It certainly serves to make something look cheaper, but I don’t think it will be the meal.