As Paula Deen proved earlier this year, those Food Network folks may have a dark side. From Scratch: Inside the Food Network (G.P. Putnam’s Sons, $28) by Allen Salkin is a biography of the 20-year old channel and backstage look at many of its stars. The author will discuss his book today at 7:30 p.m. at the D.C. Jewish Community Center.
When the Food Network was launched in 1993, Salkin says it was inspired far more by profit potential than by a love of food. Its first 10 years on air were geared toward foodies, “godfather” Emeril Lagasse had a nightly cooking show, and advertising grew quickly. Programming started to change course in 2003 with a new network president and increased demand for reality TV. The lower costs and higher ratings of dramatized cooking competitions ended up driving out shows like Lagasse’s. Familiar names like Deen, Alton Brown, Giada De Laurentiis, and Bobby Flay became the channel’s centerpiece.
From Scratch is about a business venture-turned-“corporate monster” that has experienced many ups and downs with many personalities in the mix. Salkin shows how combining corporate and hospitality cultures has brought out the ambition, savvy, aggression and vulnerability of those involved. It reads almost like fan fiction, if you really have a thing for celebrity chefs, except it’s purportedly true. You’ll learn about the minority groups that might make Guy Fieri uncomfortable, Rachael Ray’s tank-like tolerance for booze, and why Anthony Bourdain probably won’t get invited over for fried cheesecake anytime soon.
The book says that the Food Network faces new challenges going into its third decade. Instructional programming keeps getting phased out in favor of competitive and hidden camera shows. When viewers interact with the show hosts more than they can with the food, personality trumps cooking expertise, and it’s the main way Food Network has been able to maintain an audience (and billion-dollar yearly revenue).
Salkin has taught journalism at New York University and written for New York magazine, The Village Voice, Details and The New York Times covering food, culture and media. His first book was Festivus: The Holiday for the Rest of Us, on how to plan your own Festivus celebration.
The event is part of the ten-day Jewish Literary Festival at the community center, and general admission is $19.50 or $10.50 for federal employees. Tickets can be purchased here. Salkin’s talk is co-sponsored by the Jewish Food Experience project and intriguingly will include “a tasting of an Ina Garten (The Barefoot Contessa) Food Network recipe.”
