Fat-washed moonshine cider with cardamaro and cider reduction.

Rose’s Luxury is kind of like eating in someone’s living room if that someone loved exposed brick, Edison light bulbs, and your grandmother’s antique serving dishes. A comfy mix of old and new with a creative menu of share plates, this newcomer is a tiny gem along Barracks Row.

As is increasingly common these days, Rose’s Luxury dispenses with the usual appetizer and entree structure. There are a selection of small dishes ($11-$14), from pho to pasta, and two large dishes (brisket and pork schnitzel on my visit, priced at $28), all of which are meant to be shared in one fashion or another. The deconstructed menu allows for leisurely dining; the server encourages us to order a few items at a time, nibbling until we are sated.

Caramelized cauliflower, usually relegated to a sad side dish or soup, is a revelation. Sweet, meaty, and fragrant with the cheese-y aroma of truffled breadcrumbs, it’s one of those vegetarian dishes that makes you forget you ever liked meat. When a server accidentally delivered a second order to our table, I momentarily considered lying just so I can eat another heavenly floret swaddled in tangy Greek yogurt and crisp breadcrumbs.

Fennel “gnocchi” is another stand-out: tender rounds of pasta stuffed with a mild vegetable and cheese filling. The velvety dill sauce and slight licorice tang from the fennel gives the dish a Scandinavian feel. Toasted breadcrumbs make another appearance here, providing a pleasing contrast to the pillowy noodles.

While the gnocchi is elegant, the pickle-brined fried chicken is the stuff of drunk gourmet snacking dreams. The savory exterior is unfailingly crunchy, giving way to moist, juicy morsels of chicken. A drizzle of honey and benne seeds — a kind of sesame seed — add a touch of nutty sweetness. In true Southern fashion, the dish is served with a tiny vial of Crystal’s hot sauce for a tangy kick.

Pickled-brined fried chicken with honey and benne seeds.

Although every dish is inventive, some of the unusual combinations work better than others. Strawberry pasta with pepper and ricotta tastes distinctly like summer fruit, but also captures the savory essence of traditional spaghetti. It’s interesting but probably not something I’ll be craving anytime soon. Popcorn soup arrives in adorably small Mason jars and tastes surprisingly like those cheddar cheese popcorn tins one gets at Christmas-time. A really nice popcorn tin with some lobster chunks at the bottom, but still. None of these dishes are bad, mind you; they are still thought-provoking but less exceptional than others.

Cocktails ($12-$14) are also not to be missed. There are very few clever drink names here, just a list of ingredients from which to pick your poison. For fans of a Jack Rose, try the Redemption rye with seckel pear, and egg white. A hint of spice and nutmeg makes this drink a fruity send-up to autumn. The floral and slightly sweet Plymouth Gin “Martinez” (made with Cocchi instead of sweet vermouth) is perfectly light and well-balanced. Meanwhile, the fat-washed moonshine cider tastes unmistakably of bacon without overpowering the bright apple notes.

Dessert is also quite good. Save room for the grilled olive oil cake ($8), topped with an impossibly floral house-made vanilla ice cream, glistening olive oil, and—who knew?—more breadcrumbs. A healthy sprinkle of sea salt and smokey char from the cake add depth, resulting in surprisingly successful sweet-savory marriage. However, I remain on the fence about the foie gras french toast with cinnamon toast crunch ice cream ($15). In some cases, the sum is better than the whole of it’s parts; for this dessert, I felt the opposite. In the end, I think I like my liver separate from my breakfast.

Service is friendly casual but also attentive—a perfect foil for the decor and menu. Once upon a time, food and service this good meant white table clothes and stuffy dining rooms. It’s refreshing to see both the city’s residents and the restaurant scene shrugging off long-held stereotypes. Rose’s Luxury has the best of both worlds: excellent, inventive food and drink in a warm, neighborhood setting.

Rose’s Luxury
717 8th Street SE
(202) 608-5988
Hours: Monday – Thursday 5:30 – 10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday 5:30 – 11 p.m.