If we were to modernize the Japanese fable about a crane and turtle befriending one other, it would probably win a spot on this list of touching interspecies friendships. Thankfully, the story is also the inspiration for Petworth’s newest eatery, Crane & Turtle (828 Upshur Street NW). The tiny gem of a restaurant fuses Japanese and French cookery in an elegant, seafood-rich menu.
Crane & Turtle is the latest from restaurateur Paul Ruppert of Petworth Citizen, Room 11, and the forthcoming Upshur Street Books. The airy dining room holds just 25 seats, including seven at the counter overlooking an open kitchen. It’s arguably the best seat in the house as the culinary team, led by Chef Makoto Hamamura, plate beautiful gustatory compositions before your eyes.
The dishes at Crane & Turtle would easily be at home at the latest buzzy 14th Street restaurant of the week. But for those of us looking for a saner dining experience, it’s a godsend to enjoy such a thoughtful meal in a neighborhood setting. The pork cheek “ramen” is sort of like eating savory Rice Krispies, with the crunchy noodles emitting a snap, crackle, pop in their bowl of rich, smoky broth. Meanwhile, the succulent pork meat is so tender it practically melts under pressure from a pair of chopsticks. The dish does not come with a spoon, but you should not feel any shame slurping the dregs directly from the bottom of the bowl.
If ramen is the quintessential Japanese food, the artichoke barigoule clearly faces West. Based on a Provencal stew of artichokes and white wine, Crane & Turtle’s version is studded with fluffy gnocchi made using shungiku (chrysanthemum greens) and topped with a nutty leaf of fried basil. The most pleasant surprise of the dish? We’ve been eating celery wrong all these years: it’s far better cooked than eaten in its raw, stringy form. Dessert is a clear marriage of both cultures: a mammoth green tea macaroon stuffed with fresh raspberries and mascarpone cheese.
Crane & Turtle
828 Upshur Street NW
Hours: Tuesday – Thursday: 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Friday – Saturday: 5 p.m. – 11 p.m.
Sunday: 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
