The lamb ribs, a riotous pile of yogurt-swaddled onions, baby beets, citrus, and fresh herbs at Tail Up Goat. Photo by Alicia Mazzara.
The list (or one of them, anyway) is in, and three D.C. restaurants are on it.
Bon Appétit has announced its 50 picks for the best new restaurants in America, which include Bad Saint, The Dabney, and Tail Up Goat. Later this month, the magazine will winnow it down to the top 10.
In Columbia Heights, the magazine’s food critics were wowed by Bad Saint’s clams with Chinese sausage and Sichuan chiles, but called the bitter melon with black bean confit “the unexpected star.” Meanwhile, the city’s “finest version of regional cuisine” is found in a back alley, the critics say, noting Chef Jeremiah Langhorne’s ability to combine “old-world techniques with a modern chef’s outlook” at The Dabney. They favorably note Langhorne’s grilled chicken wings with fish sauce, duck with kimchi purée, and cast-iron-baked cornbread, among other items. Finally, the “laid back neighborhood restaurant” in Adams Morgan, Tail Up Goat, is praised for its food offerings like the dukkah-spiced lamb ribs as well as its drink menu. “You can tell someone had a fun time assembling this wine list,” the critics say.
Last year, Thip Khao, which features Laotian cuisine that doesn’t shy away from spice, made Bon Appetit’s top 50 list, but fell short of the top 10. But in 2014, Rose’s Luxury topped the entire list, helping the daily reservations line balloon to truly absurdist lengths.
This year’s top 10 list will be released on August 16.