A selection of stuffed arepas. (Photo courtesy of Arepa Zone’s James Jackson)
In Colombian and Venezuelan cuisine—two food cultures rich with hearty, rib-sticking comfort fare—arepas play the role of the American buttermilk biscuit, only more versatile. The disc-shaped corn cakes are a staple throughout both countries, but they’re prepared about a thousand different ways, and serve almost as many purposes.
“They are eaten at any time of day, but are notorious for being the best breakfast food in the world, stuffed with ham and cheese, or Venezuelan ‘perico,’ scrambled eggs with onions and bell peppers,” says Gabriela Febres, who co-owns Arepa Zone (http://www.arepazone.com) a D.C. based-food truck serving authentic Venezuelan cuisine (they also have a location in Union Station).
And not all arepas are created equal, as I noted on a recent trip to Colombia, where Febres says arepas tend to vary more. On the coast, I found the arepas to be big, fluffy fried affairs, often stuffed with eggs or cheese. In mountainous Medellin, they were small, grilled saucers and eaten more as an accompaniment to the ubiquitous bandeja paisa, a platter piled with various types of meat, fried plantains, and other goodies.
“In Venezuela, when talking about arepas, most Venezuelans are thinking about the same thing,” Febres says, and they can be found in any region, grilled, fried, or baked, and stuffed with a variety of fillings. The most traditional innards are shredded beef, and or chicken breast with mayonnaise, avocado, and cilantro.
Regardless of the type of arepa or what it’s stuffed with,
a girl pretty quickly gets used to a meal that is basically carbs stuffed with cheese and served alongside yet more carbs. So upon my return to America, I promptly embarked on a hunt for some authentic arepas, and the delicious Colombian and Venezuelan grub that goes with them, closer to home. Here’s what I came up with around the D.C. region:
Arepa Zone (Union Market)
Febres’ food truck and Union Market location serve up tequenos and 13 different combinations of arepa fillings. Possibilities include ham and cheese, black beans and queso fresco, or the pabellon: shredded beef, black beans, queso fresco, and sweet plantains.
JPII Colombian Breeze (348 Main Street, Gaithersburg, Md.)
It’s a bit of a trek, but worth it. Now run by a new generation of the same family that opened the restaurant in 2005, Colombian Breeze serves what are pretty much the arepas of my dreams: big, sweet grilled corn cakes with a slightly sweet char and blanketed in soft white cheese. And in that same dream? I’d have them paired with the carne desmechada: fall apart tender beef simmered in authentic spices and served with buttery golden Colombian potatoes, roasted until crispy.
La Caraquena (300 W. Broad Street, Falls Church, Va.)
Cozy and armed with a strong list of Venezuelan and other South American wines, this neighborhood gem gets crowded on a Friday night. The arepas come fried or grilled and can be stuffed with everything from thinly sliced steak to chicken salad. It would be easy to get filled up on arepas here, but the traditional beef platters are worth saving some room.
La Fonda Paisa (7914 Georgia Avenue, Silver Spring, Md.)
This small bakery, café, and grocery store rolled into one offers authentic Colombian fare, prepared to order, plus a wide variety of tempting pastries. You’ll find both light, airy arepas rellenas, made with masarepa or precooked cornmeal, and arepas choclo, thick griddled cakes made with sweet corn. And La Fonda Paisa serves a bandeja paisa that rivals anything I sampled in Colombia. The massive plate laden with slow-cooked beef studded with vegetables, a fried egg, grilled sausage, beans, crispy pork rind, rice, avocado, and of course, arepas relleno, which are perfect for scooping up the spicy beef.
The Royal (501 Florida Avenue NW)
Another good option in the district, this LeDroit Park coffee shop/bar/restaurant serves arepas as breakfast, lunch, and dinner options. By day, you’ll find your arepa paired with a fried egg and cojita cheese. By night, you can choose from black bean, grilled cheese style, or beef topped with cabbage and avocado. There is a wide selection of unique bar food as well, including grilled squid and shrimp ceviche topped with house-made popcorn, and the fried pig ears come with coconut rice, another Colombian staple. The Royal recently scored a nod on the 2016 Michelin Bib Gourmand list, which recognizes restaurants of both quality and value.
