Lomo saltado gets a makeover at China Chilcano. (Photo by China Chilcano)

Dish of the week: Lomo saltado
Where to find it: China Chilcano, El Fuego, El Chalán, Nazca Mochica, La Granja de Oro

The U.S may have its melting pot, but Peru is home to a multicultural cuisine like no other. With Peru just having celebrated its own Independence Day, there’s no better time to savor one of the country’s flagship dishes.

“Lomo saltado is a Peruvian stir-fry. That’s your easiest way to explain the dish,” says Manuel Alfaro, chef and owner of the El Fuego food truck.

Of course, there’s much more to it than that. Alfaro is also a gastronomy ambassador for the Peruvian government in D.C. And to hear him tell it, lomo saltado’s flavorful, colorful ingredients symbolize pieces of Peru: empire, conquest, and immigration.

Start with the “lomo” itself—loin, one of the choicest cuts of beef. Cattle arrived in Peru courtesy of the Spaniards. The word “saltado” refers to the jumping happening during high-heat stir-frying in a wok. Peru’s Chinese immigrant community brought their woks and seasonings with them, starting in the 1800s. That cultural mashup led to a whole new cuisine, called Chifa, from the words “to eat rice” in one of China’s languages.

Lomo saltado wouldn’t be a Peruvian dish without a nod to the Inca legacy. For that, there’s the sunny kick of the ají amarillo pepper, native to Peru and the essence of its cooking. Even the french fries on the side are symbolic, because the world’s potatoes originated in this region. Red onion, soy sauce, tomato, and rice round out the dish.

Alfaro serves up lomo saltado ($11) on the regular at El Fuego.

“The first thing that goes into your wok is your beef,” Alfaro says. “It goes on in strips to sear on all sides.”

Red onion, cut into thick wedges, is next, followed by veggies and seasonings, with tomato wedges last.

“This all happens within not even two minutes. You want your veggies to remain crispy,” he explains. “You get that smoky flavor courtesy of the flame— and at a restaurant they sometimes finish it off with a little bit of pisco,” Peru’s signature spirit.

Chefs play with this iconic dish by adding spices such as cumin or oregano, different potatoes, or different cuts of beef. El Fuego was off the road for part of July but will be back in August. Alfaro says that lomo saltado will absolutely be back with it.

“That is our most popular dish on the truck, every day,” he says.

Clearly, lomo saltado has a traditional recipe, but the folks at China Chilcano (418 7th St. NW) don’t treat it like a sacred cow. Fanciful shoestring potatoes crown the dish ($18) for a special presentation. You can even add a fried egg for $2 more. At Nazca Mochica (1633 P St. NW), Roma tomatoes and garlic contribute to the lomo saltado’s rich flavor ($24). Vegetarians seeking inspiration from the dish can try the Coliflor Saltada ($16), with cauliflower replacing the beef.

At D.C. stalwart El Chalán (1924 I St. NW), founded in 1975, you have the option of sticking with the classic ($18.42) or upgrading to the Lomo Saltado Especial ($28.05), made with filet mignon. The truly dedicated will want to journey to Falls Church. There, in what Yelpers claim is a converted Pizza Hut, La Granja de Oro (2920 Annandale Rd.) dishes out generous enough portions for two servings ($15.95).

Previously on Dish Of The Week:
Boozy Vegetables Edition
Ice Cream Sandwiches
Classic French Steak Frites
Summer Of Funnel Cake
Fried Shrimp Po’Boy